Episode 8 of Watch the Icon is here — and we are trading racetracks for royalty.
This week, Sofia Brontvein decodes the quietly radical story of the Cartier Tank — the rectangular wristwatch that went from battlefield blueprint to global icon.
Designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier and inspired by the profile of a Renault tank, the Tank was never loud. It never needed to be.
It simply showed up — on the wrists of Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Truman Capote, Yves Saint Laurent — and whispered, “This is how elegance works.”
In this episode, we dive into over a century of geometric rebellion: a watch that defied roundness, flirted with minimalism, and remained, somehow, the coolest thing in the room.
Here are five things you (probably) didn’t know about the Cartier Tank — unless you have been reading French Vogue since 1923:
1. Its shape comes from war — but its style came straight from Paris. The original design was inspired by the top-down view of a WWI tank. The result? A weaponised rectangle for your wrist.
2. It has never tried to be modern. Because it already was. In 1919. And it still is — somehow — in 2025.
3. It is genderless — in the most elegant way possible. Worn by kings and queens. Writers and rebels. It never picked a side. It simply fit.
4. Andy Warhol wore one religiously — but never wound it. Because “I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time,” he said. “I wear it because it’s the watch to wear.”
5. It has survived every fashion cycle — by ignoring them. From the Art Deco boom to the ‘90s minimalism revival, the Tank has remained effortlessly relevant by doing absolutely nothing.
Listen now
Come for the cabochon crown, stay for the cultural gravitas.
Missed previous episodes? Here you go: