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by Sofia Brontvein
How To Travel To Tokyo And Survive (Most Probably)
3 Oct 2025
Photo: Levi Meir Clancy
Tokyo hit me like a neon freight train. The first hours were a collage of escalators and beeps, jingles and public service announcements, immaculate queues that materialise out of thin air, and distances that trick your Dubai-calibrated brain — what looks “just around the corner” is three metro lines, two transfers, and four thousand steps later. For the first three (fine, four) days I kept asking the same tired question: what am I doing here? Dubai, with its desert hush and clean straight lines, suddenly felt like a monastery.
But Tokyo — unapologetically loud, hyperactive, and fundamentally itself — was here to teach me one boring, beautiful lesson: slow down anyway. Ignore the buzz and the fuzz. Do your thing. Stay yourself. The moment I decided to drop the “must-do in 48 hours” list and just walk — suburbs, pour-over coffee, architecture, headphones, pretending I live here — the city was unclenched. Consider this not a checklist but a survival ritual.
Basecamp: Daikanyama (oxygen in the capital of overstimulation)
If you like being near the action but sleeping far from it, pick Daikanyama. It sits between the spectacle of Shibuya and the militant retail of Ginza, yet stays leafy, low-slung, and human. The architecture is polite, the shops are small, the coffee is honest. You can walk to chaos and retreat in ten minutes when you have had enough. Boutique stays here are more “Daikanyama-adjacent” than smack in the middle — but that is the charm: you orbit the calm. Trunk hotel feels like a friends-with-taste clubhouse. Sequence Miyashita Park is slick and connected right into the shopping-park complex. Hyatt House Shibuya gives you kitchens and space if you are staying longer. And All Day Place Shibuya is an easy, design-light hotel with its own coffee bar. Now unwrap Daikanyama properly. Start at Daikanyama T-Site — a cathedral of books and good taste where the architecture makes you weirdly zen about consumerism. Wander over to Log Road Daikanyama, a wood-lined stretch built on former rail tracks: cafés, benches, greenery. Step into Kyu Asakura House, a Taishō-era villa where time slows to the rhythm of creaking tatami mats. And because this neighborhood blends culture with caffeine, sneak in a stop at Lurf Gallery for contemporary art and a serious pour-over.
Lurf Gallery, Kyu Asakura, Shinjuku. Photo: Sofia Brontvein
One district, one day (the sanity-preserving itinerary)
Rule of Tokyo: distances are a practical joke. Don’t “do the city” in an espresso shot. I planned my second week like this — one district, one day — and my cortisol finally sat down.
Ginza. Photo: Michal Vaško, Kevin Fabert, Tom Swinnen
Ginza at dawn. Go absurdly early, when the streets are ceremonial and the security guards are still stretching. Start at the Ginza Six rooftop garden — a public park floating above luxury retail. Drift to Dover Street Market Ginza, the mothership of curated fashion oddities. Then the pragmatist’s circuit: MUJI’s global flagship, plus the twelve-floor Uniqlo Ginza that solves any packing regrets. Coffee pit stop? The City Bakery nearby is an unpretentious reset.
Ginza. Photo: Sofia Brontvein
Omotesandō + Cat Street. Retail architecture cosplays as a museum district here. Walk the tree-lined boulevard, then cut into Cat Street — small designers, vintage dens, and cafés for the serially caffeinated. For art, detour to the Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum, where sculptures sprout like ideas in a garden. Then rinse your senses at Nezu Museum, with its dreamlike garden and whisper-inducing café.
Shinjuku. Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest — just surviving the ticket gates feels like a rite of passage. But step outside and you will find Tokyo’s split personality at its most vivid: glass towers, pachinko neon, micro bars in Golden Gai, then suddenly the quiet green sprawl of Shinjuku Gyoen park. Do one loud, one calm — salaryman chaos at night, garden stillness in the morning — and you will understand the city’s daily heartbeat.
Shinjuku. Photo: Berk Ozdemir, Wijs, Rochdipz
Roppongi. Dedicate a day to the Art Triangle: Mori Art Museum, the National Art Center Tokyo, and Suntory Museum of Art. Each offers a different mood — contemporary, ambitious, thematic — and together they are a masterclass in cultural stamina. Lobbies are as good for people-watching as the galleries themselves.
Asakusa. Old Tokyo, incense version. Start at Sensō-ji Temple with its giant lantern and endless rows of tourist snacks (yes, buy the skewered dango). Then escape sideways into side streets: retro kissaten cafés, tiny knife shops, and the Sumida River’s slow walks. Asakusa is the city reminding you it had a life long before neon.
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Minato. Photo: Kuma Jio
Minato. If you have seen a postcard of Tokyo, odds are Minato is in it — Tokyo Tower glowing like an Eiffel cosplay. But beyond the skyline, it is home to some of the city’s most expat-friendly cafés, embassies, and small shrines wedged improbably between office blocks. Climb Tokyo Tower at sunset for the cliché (worth it), then descend into Azabu-Juban’s streets for late-night ramen and wine bars.
Operational reality (lines, money, moving around, patience)
The unsexy part: Tokyo is half logistics. Queues are not a bug; they are a civic art form. That eight-seat sushi bar down a quiet lane? Book it. Breakfast at the hyped bakery? Book it. Major museum exhibitions? Definitely book timed entry.
Distances are huge, so befriend the metro. Get an IC card — Welcome Suica if you are a short-term visitor, or load Suica/PASMO into Apple Wallet and tap your way through the city. They work across metro, buses, convenience stores, and even some taxis. Yes, taxis are immaculate and doors open automatically, but the price tag makes them a luxury, not a commute strategy.
Photo: Sofia Brontvein
Know-how (trust the konbini)
Tokyo’s supermarkets are mesmerising, but your daily salvation lives at the konbini — 7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart. They are everything at once: breakfast, dinner, coffee, bandages, phone chargers, emergency tie. Conduct your own tasting flight of onigiri, seasonal KitKats, puddings, karaage sticks, and those dangerously addictive egg sandwiches.
Two-day escape valve: Okutama
When your head hums, give 48 hours to western Tokyo’s lungs. Okutama sits at the end of the Ōme Line and feels worlds away: cedar forests, the jade ribbon of the Tama River, hanging bridges, air filtered by moss. Do shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) with a guide, or walk the Okutama Mukashi-michi — the “old road” along the river and lake. Drop into Hatonosu Gorge for suspension-bridge views, or cool off in the Nippara Caves. Cyclists: Route 411 is a classic, climbing from river flats into mountain rollers, with hot springs waiting at the end.
Okutama. Photo: Sofia Brontvein
Micro-rituals that saved my sanity
- Start early. Tokyo at 7 am is a different city — calm, almost shy.
- One thing, not five. Pick an anchor each day and let the rest unfold.
- Coffee as cadence. A good pour-over is punctuation, not caffeine.
- Pack light, buy local. Uniqlo will fix whatever you forgot; MUJI will tempt you with luggage; Tsutaya will drown you in art books.
- Leave room for weather. Rain makes the city reflective; sun makes rooftops irresistible.
- Accept the queue. Playlists, notes app, people-watching — it is practically performance art.
So — how to survive Tokyo? You don’t. You surrender (strategically). You pick Daikanyama as your calm base, wander Ginza at dawn, shop like an architect on Omotesandō, lose a day happily in Roppongi’s museums, eat like a local at a convenience store, and when the noise starts vibrating behind your eyes, you run to Okutama and let the forest rewire you. Do less, notice more, and the city stops being a blur and becomes a conversation. That is when Tokyo, merciless and magnificent, finally says hello back.