by Christelle EL-Daher
NAHATÉ Dubai, a New Home: Interview With Yazid Ichemrahen
7 Sept 2024
NAHATÉ Dubai is more than a home. It is a 1,100-square-meter space dedicated to sharing special moments and fostering genuine connections. The family-run restaurant and club is located on Podium Level, DIFC. With its “Gatbyesque” apartment details, it is prepared to welcome you, your family and friends over, whether in the living area or private rooms, for fine dining or social events. You will have the chance to enjoy the first-ever J&Co cigar lounge or sit at the one-of-a-kind Baccarat Chef’s table. We at The Sandy Times had the opportunity to chat with Yazid Ichemrahen, the internationally renowned and celebrated pastry chef, to learn more about his bespoke creations and their home, NAHATÉ Dubai.
— With a career as impressive as yours, what made you embark on the NAHATÉ adventure?
— It is, first and foremost, a story of human connections. After the release of the biopic highlighting my difficult childhood, “Un rêve d’enfant étoilé”, Sam and Jenya, the founders of NAHATÉ, reached out, thus hard launching our friendship. We share similar backgrounds and life values. We had a rough upbringing and started from nothing. Instead of giving up, we forged our own fortune. Our passion, ambition, meticulous attention to detail, and love for creation are what drive us and are the key ingredients to our success. Business came later. When they asked me to take part in this creative project, it did not take much convincing for me to accept their offer.
Actually, I have turned down previous opportunities in Dubai. I have never pictured myself working in this city. I have always seen it as a vacation destination. That was until this adventure started. The idea of working on such a simple yet innovative project centered around the spirit of conviviality drew me in. Moreover, NAHATÉ’s motto is “more than home”, which complements my Parisian café “At Home”. It was a sign that the stars were aligned.
— Your motto is “simplicity and sharing”. How does that tie with NAHATÉ Dubai’s philosophy?
— My culinary philosophy is very straightforward. Simplicity and precision are its pillars. My cakes will never be too complicated in terms of flavors, yet they are perfectly thought and executed. NAHATÉ’s owners and I share the same philosophy of sharing, simplicity and attention to detail. These features are well reflected in this establishment’s menu and architecture. This philosophy transcends the exceptional bespoke decoration of spaces, and extends to the art of table setting and guest reception. NAHATÉ is a place where the most exquisite elements and ingredients come together, in such grace and simplicity, garnishing the outmost convivial atmosphere.
— The press release mentions a “modern nomad” menu. How does that translate into desserts? What flavors can we expect? And where did you find your inspiration?
— The NAHATÉ sweets menu features ten desserts. It has my signature dessert, “la forêt noire”. I have toured the globe, well 42 countries to be precise, with this creation. It is a brownie base completed with caramel, chocolate mousse, and a surprise crunchy element. Then we have the red “Scandal”. It is a nod to the iconic red lips featured on the advertisement of a big French fashion house. It is a dessert that comes with a red berry sauce and my artistic twist. It is a panna cotta with Iranian orange blossom and a touch of Moroccan rose water tying all the savors together. Two reinvented French desserts are also presented. I have used saffron and cardamon for one creation; rose water and orange blossom for the other. For these delicacies, I have used French raw materials and respected the codes of French pastries while creating a dessert with strong and recognized Arabic flavors. Another creation remains a work in progress. It includes seasonal fruits, citrus notes, basil, coriander and mint. The idea is to take fresh, herbal, nature-inspired raw elements and couple them with a highly proteinic yogurt sorbet. It is a match of flavors that work extremely well together.
As you have seen, the desserts are ultra-design and unique in their shapes. They do represent my style. I am not afraid of bringing my contribution to the world of pastries. The key is to know how to reinterpret desserts in a way that appeals to the local tastebuds. Nowadays, nomad and cosmopolitan are the new norms to follow. A chef who limits themself to a single method of cooking is unlikely to achieve much. Everyone should get to experience French gastronomy readapted to their local culture. At the end of the day, a chef’s role is to prepare meals and pastries to be enjoyed by their guests. So, if a chef doesn’t take the culture and the local’s taste into consideration, the locals won’t be satisfied.
— What is the number of hours, sleepless nights, trials and errors put into crafting such exquisite and unique menus?
— Research takes time. Research involves trials and errors, countless drawings, and many tests and samples. It is tedious work, but this is how I process to create my desserts. I start by imagining the pastry’s shape, colours and flavours. Then, I move to step two, drawing sketches. The third step is testing recipes. The fourth and final step is about bringing the idea to life. This entire process takes anywhere between two months to a year. Moreover, it is important to note that not all my ideas end up trialled. Before being added to any menu, I invite twenty people to taste what I have imagined and prepared for them to share their feedback. If I don’t get at least fifteen positive comments, then the pastry will be shelved for good.
— Tell us more about the exclusive bespoke dessert menu imagined exclusively for the Baccarat Chef’s table.
— NAHATÉ is collaborating with Baccarat, the famous French crystal maker, to create a unique table setting. To celebrate this partnership, I was invited to create a bespoke dessert that will not only have the shape of the iconic Baccarat champagne flute but will also replicate its finest details. It took me six and a half months to recreate the exact shape of the flute by using a silicone mould that was 3D printed. We are really fortunate to have these improved and innovative technologies at our disposal. They make our lives much easier. Technology is here to help us, as chefs, to evolve in our craft. At the moment, I am at my 29th test recipe, and I have not found the perfect formula just yet. Achieving an optimal equilibrium takes time. Obviously, this dessert will be very French in terms of flavours. It is an homage to French craftsmanship, know-how and taste. The dessert itself is a yoghurt ice cream, with the yoghurt coming straight from the French Ardèche region, topped with a chocolate sauce, praline, hazelnut and salt flower.
— You have been mentored by the crème de la crème of French pastry chefs, and many of your clients are Arab Royalty. How has the Arab world received Yazid Ichemrahen’s creations?
— They have welcomed my creations with open arms. They have been very receptive. Do you know what The King of Bahrain, Bernard Arnault, Robert De Niro and Kate Moss have in common? They most enjoy the flavours of their childhood, which are dominated by chocolate, vanilla and caramel. All these influential and rich individuals have the same likings. In reality, we all share the same simple childhood tastebuds. That is what cooking and pastry is all about: sincerity, honesty and simplicity. The language of simplicity and sharing is universal.
— Through “YI”, you consult on luxury and lifestyle projects within your expertise. Is the language of luxury universal? Does it change with regions and parts of the world? Yes, no? And why?
— I believe that the same reasoning applies to luxury. The language of luxury is universal. The requirements are the same worldwide, yet the perception changes. Luxury is universal in how things are presented and served, yet it takes many forms and shapes depending on the part of the world you are in. Luxury is not perceived in Russia, France, Italy, Qatar and the UAE in the same way. Rome sees history as a luxury. You visit to experience the privilege of staying in a hotel that dates back to 1765, where the walls and plates are hand-painted and engraved. You are paying the price of a unique emotional experience that others will never be able to live. In Paris, luxury means booking a 50 square meter room in a 500-year-old renovated French Palace for the price of 3000 euros per night. In Dubai, luxury lies in the noble materials used to ornament a space, such as marble, granite, and shining twinkling crystals. So yes, the perception changes. Nevertheless, the requirements and the standards of excellence remain unchanged. Personally, I enjoy learning about new cultures and incorporating their perception of luxury within my creations. I am grateful that my professional experiences and character allow me to pull this job out perfectly.
— Imagine you are writing the sequel of “un rêve d’enfant étoilé” which milestones, achieved or not yet, would you like to include?
— I don’t want to include any milestones. Instead, I would like to address how ageing, life experiences, travelling and discovering different cultures allow a person to gain maturity and acquire humility. Moral wealth is far more important than any business venture and the accumulation of financial wealth. Throughout my assent, I got to meet all sorts of people and characters. I was always capable of making the right decisions and avoiding the wrong crowds. Maturity played an important role, and it remains a precious ally. Today, I have the chance to be a member of the NAHATÉ team and to work with colleagues from France, Russia, the Middle East, and the United Kingdom, among other countries. To work with multicultural teams is a life-enriching experience. They allow you to broaden your horizons. To work with friends is another privilege. Life is simple. It does not take too much to be happy and enjoy it, as long as we are capable of celebrating the moment and cherishing the people who surround us. We have to remember that life priorities and perspectives change with time. For example, a person in their twenties has different priorities than an individual in their thirties. When I was in my twenties, I wanted to challenge myself and achieve great things, no matter the cost. Today, however, I have transcended this phase. I want to push my boundaries and achieve something bigger than myself.
More from
Painting Tough Times With Bright Colours: Interview with Artist Reynier Llanes
From escaping Cuba on a boat to becoming an internationally recognised artist
by Alexandra Mansilla
6 Oct 2024
New Kid On the Block: Aisha Alabbar Gallery
A story about how art and science met each other at Warehouse C-19 in Alserkal Avenue
by Sophie She
4 Oct 2024
A Creative You Should Know: Lea Hadidian
That Lebanese girl from your feed is about to wow everyone with her jewelry brand soon
by Alexandra Mansilla
3 Oct 2024
Sneakers In the Form Of Wind: The Story Behind SIROCCO 1 By Kacimi Latamène
What does this shoe look like, and why was it inspired by the wind born in the desert?
by Sophie She
1 Oct 2024
Chef Kuv: The Story Behind the Pretty Table
A story about how to turn your life around and win
by Sophie She
1 Oct 2024
Chafa Ghaddar, the Lebanese Artist: ‘Trauma Is a Shared Meal We Are All Sitting At’
Disastrous events can be reflected in an artist's work in many ways. How does Chafa express them?
by Alexandra Mansilla
28 Sept 2024