In the past couple of years, several independent lifestyle media outlets have emerged in the UAE, helping to build a community of creators and draw attention to the art and culture scene in the Middle East. Our publisher, Sofia Brontvein, spoke with KHAMSA co-founder and editor-in-chief Aya Mechelany-Arab about the rise of niche and underground media in the UAE, how Dubai is becoming the new capital of fashion and luxury, and how the culture community is consolidating.

— Tell us about your career track. How have you ended up establishing a media outlet here in Dubai?

— I am half French and half Lebanese. I grew up in France, and then I moved to the U.S. to study luxury management at Parsons School of Design. I was super passionate about fashion and the media industry, so my first job was at Chanel in New York while I was living there. I was one of the first hires of the innovation department in New York, looking into new trends and new products that could help Chanel become the unique and competitive brand that it is today. 

Then, I went back to Paris because I wanted to do my master’s degree at HEC Paris Business School. I focused on everything related to finance and the economics of fashion. This education allowed me to get a job opportunity in Dubai at Dior Beauty. I came to the UAE seven years ago, starting as an intern at Dior Beauty. Later, I joined the Prada Group. My work was related to media, communications, and content creation, and I became really passionate about it. I was like, okay, that is what I want to do with my life. This is basically how KHAMSA started. My brother Nico and I decided to partner and start this new journey of creating something new for the Middle East media industry. 

— What is the idea behind Khamsa? And what are your main goals?

— It has been almost two years since we have launched KHAMSA. We are fully digital. From the very beginning, we have decided to focus on the website and social media. Our main idea is to create a platform which empowers the creative youth of the Middle East. We focus on creative minds, forward thinkers, innovators, and artists. 

— How has the media industry changed over the past few years? 

— Lots of new brands are coming in, and the big players are entering the Gulf region. I think this is great because it really shows how the Middle East is on the map these days. Many people were complaining that the Middle East was always overlooked and didn’t have their place at the table. But now, with all the magazines coming, we can see that the region is in everyone's mind. You know, everyone wants to be part of it and be part of the journey. All the magazines we have in the Middle East are very innovative. They are putting a lot of effort to change the perception of the region worldwide. I think it is a super exciting time for the media industry here. Just have a look at us or you guys at The Sandy Times — we are bringing a new proposition.

— I partly agree with you, but at the same time, I feel that local media outlets are focused more on the global agenda, missing out on some local issues. I believe we need to be more glocal. That is the right direction to follow. 

— Yeah, I would agree with you in principle. This is actually one of the main reasons why we decided to launch KHAMSA. We felt like many media outlets were focused on the West and international celebrities, and we got frustrated that local art and culture highlights were not the priority. But I do feel somehow that it is a bit evolving nowadays. 

— I think that the media industry is evolving together with the art and culture scene itself. We have a lot of newcomers, exhibitions, galleries, and biennales happening in the region. 

— Absolutely, 100%. Everything is changing in the UAE right now. It is such an interesting place to be. Local talents are evolving, and global talents are coming. And it is spreading all around the region. Look at Saudi, for example. This country is doing an amazing job, especially in terms of art. What they have done with AlUla and Desert X is simply incredible. They are really putting the region on the map. I mean, everyone in the world has been talking about AlUla and wanting to go there. 

— Abu Dhabi Cultural District, once it is completed, will be a massive topic worldwide. We have so many talents coming these days that it is becoming challenging to understand who are real creative minds and who are wannabe artists. How do you choose your heroes at Khamsa? 

— Lots of research. Our team is fully dedicated to talent research. We have built a database over several years, but we always keep an eye on newcomers. We really try to understand what the exact person is doing and what are the ideas behind their project. We analyse what they are bringing to the table and if it makes any sense and difference. 

— You have a huge experience in the luxury segment based on your career background. The Middle East is one of the biggest markets right now for premium goods, but I feel like this region lacks authenticity. There are not so many innovative and creative advertising and marketing projects. 

— I do agree with you. For a long time, there was a lot of frustration among editors, fashion influencers, and others in the industry because they felt that the Middle Eastern market wasn't adequately represented on the global stage. For example, when I think about fashion shows, the Middle Eastern market was often not given the most interesting or prominent seating at shows. This was a constant source of frustration in my previous roles, especially when hosting shows. We would often question why the headquarters didn't place more importance on the Middle East.

However, this has changed significantly in recent years. Although it has taken time, global brands are now more aware of the need to focus on local content and the Middle Eastern market. There is a noticeable shift happening. Brands are now more comfortable with creating Ramadan campaigns in the region or featuring Middle Eastern talents on magazine covers, for example — things that would have been more atypical five or seven years ago.

One thing I have learned from working with these brands is that there are many layers of approval involved. We tend to forget this because we are so immersed in the market. Often, people in Europe or the US, who might not be as familiar with the region, don't fully understand its value. So, starting a project and getting it approved can take a long time. For example, to get content localised with a major fashion brand, the PR team might have to work on it for months, if not years.

This slow process can be frustrating because it feels like there is a lack of local content. However, I believe that PR teams and big companies representing the Middle East are really pushing in the right direction. This was certainly the case in my previous experiences, and from conversations with my peers, it was a common topic — how to convince headquarters to approve initiatives that showcase what the Middle East can do.

— I truly believe that in a few years Dubai can become another fashion capital. New York Fashion Week has been dying for several years, and I think Dubai can replace this great city. 

— For sure! Honestly, I am wishing for that. This would be such an amazing thing for the fashion scene in the Middle East. Many other markets have been declining, but the industry is booming here. And we definitely deserve to own our Fashion Week. We could finally show the world all these Middle Eastern designers.

— We probably need to arrange a Middle Eastern version of Pitti Uomo to highlight both internationally famous and unknown local brands. This region could develop its own fashion scene, which may be compared to Scandinavian or Asian. And I also believe we need to have more concept stores where local brands could be represented. Such a format allows them to gain a lot of recognition and brand awareness. 

— Definitely. I think there is only one well-known concept store in the UAE named THAT. If someone were to create a concept store like Colette in the Middle East, it would be incredibly interesting and, I am sure, a great success. I remember when I lived in New York, concept stores were everywhere, and even in Paris, Colette was a place I visited weekly. It was such an amazing store. Having something similar in the Middle East would be absolutely incredible.

— I am sure it is just a matter of time. We will see such amazing things happening in this region in the coming years.  

— I completely agree. As I mentioned earlier, I believe this is a really interesting moment for the region. I have been in Dubai for years, and just seeing how much the city has changed in such a short time is incredible. It makes you excited for the coming years and curious about what new developments will emerge. The talent and professionals in the region are truly contributing to the growth of Dubai and the Middle East as a whole. It is a very exciting time to be here.