“The Best Compliment Is Seeing Happy Faces At The Table” — An Interview With Dragonfly Chef Biman Rai

by Barbara Yakimchuk

“The Best Compliment Is Seeing Happy Faces At The Table” — An Interview With Dragonfly Chef Biman Rai

12 Jul 2025

Dubai is easily one of the most restaurant-packed cities per square metre — from Chinese and Japanese to Filipino, Arabic, Italian, and French, you will find it all.

Which is why dining out can sometimes come with mixed feelings. Yes, the food is good, the concept is interesting… but it can also feel a bit familiar — like something you have seen before. So when a place truly stands out — when it hits both your heart and your stomach — it is a great feeling. And that is exactly how I felt after visiting Dragonfly.

The place is fairly new, yet it is already earned a Michelin recommendation (which doesn’t happen often!). So, what is behind its success? The best way to find out is to talk to the person behind the food.

Meet Chef Biman — sharing his personal story and lifting the curtain on what makes Dragonfly so special.

— Let’s start from the beginning. How did you decide to become a chef? Has food always been your passion?

— I grew up in a very small town in Nepal, and honestly, I never imagined I would end up in the kitchen. Of course, I cooked — like everyone does — but it wasn’t professional. Just simple home meals, nothing in a real culinary setting.

Then someone in my life began guiding me — teaching, mentoring, and encouraging me step by step. Over time, I started to enjoy being in the kitchen. I gradually gained confidence and eventually fell in love with it. That is really how my journey began. Since then, I have worked in different countries, explored various cuisines. And now — it has already been 16 years (kind of shocking to say it out loud!).

— You spend so much time cooking professionally. What about when you are at home — what do you cook for yourself?

— Honestly, it really depends on whatever I have in the fridge. Thanks to the nature of my work, I can make something good out of almost anything. If I have noodles, I will make noodles. If there is leftover rice, I will turn it into a quick stir-fry — fast and simple.

On my day off, I might treat myself with a small "party" — and for me, a party usually means meat. I love steak, so I will grab a good cut, season it with just salt, pepper, and maybe a bit of garlic. Then I sear it and pop it in the oven. Depending on my mood, I usually go for medium or medium-rare — so it stays in the oven for just 6 to 10 minutes.

— When you go out to restaurants, what type of guest are you?

— If there is such a thing as types of restaurant guests, then I am definitely the explorer.

Whenever I go somewhere new — especially when I am travelling — I always try to order something I have never had before. If I see a dish I already know well, something I have made myself or we serve at our own place, I will usually skip it. I am much more into discovering new things, seeing what is trending, or figuring out what makes that place special. I just really enjoy exploring through food.

That said, if you ask about favourites — I do have a soft spot for fried dishes. Rock shrimp, shrimp dynamite, tempura… I know those flavours inside out. But even then, I rarely order them when I am out.

— And if you don't love the dish — do you usually give honest feedback?

— Always. I don’t complain just to complain, but I will usually offer a suggestion. I try to describe the flavour profile and maybe share how it could be improved. I believe in giving thoughtful, constructive feedback — not just saying, “I didn’t like it, can you change it?”

Since I work in a kitchen myself, I know how much effort goes into every dish. So I always try to keep it respectful and helpful, without making anyone feel bad about their work.

— How was the menu for Dragonfly developed? Were you involved in creating it, or did it already exist?

— When I joined Dragonfly, most of the menu was already in place and running. But after I came on board, I started creating some new dishes, which have since been added. So no, I didn’t create the entire menu, but I have definitely contributed to its development — especially with seasonal items.

The menu is actually like a living organism — it is constantly evolving. Some dishes get rotated out, and new ones are introduced based on the season or guest feedback. And sometimes, it is simply because we discover a great new flavour. That is a big part of my role — to follow market trends, experiment, and stay connected to seasonal produce. Once I have a concept in mind, I dive into research: learning about the ingredients, understanding their flavour profiles, and building the dish step by step.

— Imagine you are creating a new dish — where do you start? What does that process look like?

— Before diving into the creative side, it is important to understand the request. Every new dish starts with either guest feedback we have gathered or a direction from the team. So really, the first step is communication. I begin by speaking with the owners or founders to understand what they are envisioning.

From there, I start experimenting with ingredients and try to craft something that aligns with their vision. Sometimes it is a longer process; other times, they will just say, “Let’s come up with something new for next week,” and that is when I begin. I also need to understand the technical aspect — are we aiming for something vegetarian? Seafood-based? That helps shape where I go next.

Inspiration usually starts at the market. I know it might sound cliché, but that is where the ingredients guide me. I walk through, see what is in season, and let the ideas come naturally.

And finally, before any dish makes it to the menu, it goes through several rounds of testing and refinement.

— By the way, when it comes to guest feedback — how do you strike the balance between your own style and what guests want?

— I love that question, because I have seen all kinds of reactions over the years. Sometimes chefs can get defensive — you know those stories where a guest says they didn’t like something in the dish, maybe it was too salty or too sweet — and the chef replies, “No, it is perfect.” To me, that isn't the right mindset.

I always remind myself: I am cooking for the guest, not for myself.

So I listen. If someone says something is too salty, too spicy, or too sweet — I take it seriously. I am always happy to adjust the dish to suit the guest. It is not a problem. At the end of the day, the goal is to make people happy. If something can be improved, I will make the change. There is no ego in it for me.

That said, I also look at the bigger picture. If ten people love a dish and one person has a different opinion, I still take note — maybe keep an eye on how others react — but I won’t rush to change the recipe immediately.

For me, cooking is about sharing something with others. It is about connection. So I always try to meet people in the middle and make sure they leave satisfied.

— Let’s talk about your team at Dragonfly. Is it a big kitchen crew?

— It isn't a huge team — I would say it is medium-sized. We have around 19 staff members.

— What is your leadership style in the kitchen — are you the strict chef?

— I wouldn’t say I am strict — but I do believe in having structure. There are moments when you need to be firm and show leadership, especially in a busy kitchen. If you are too relaxed all the time, people can start cutting corners without even realizing it.

But for me, it is all about balance. I try to stay calm, supportive, and clear with my team. Shouting, throwing pans — that isn't who I am. I have worked in places where that was normal, and I never connected with that style. For me, it is too old-school. I think things are different now. The new generation responds much better when you guide them properly and brief them clearly. That way, they know what is expected — without the fear.

— And how does it usually go during a busy day? Say the restaurant is almost full — what is the atmosphere like?

— I truly believe that good planning always pays off. So we actually always prepare in advance. We know the number of bookings, we understand the expected guest flow, and we plan accordingly. If we are expecting a large group or know it is going to be a busy day, everything is pre-organized. As the head chef, I brief the team and make sure everyone knows their tasks. With clear communication and structure, even 200 or 300 guests aren’t a problem.

And one more thing — one of our biggest strengths is that we aren't strict about rigid section rules. In some kitchens, one chef is responsible for just one area — I don’t believe in that. I want everyone to be trained across all sections.

If someone is overloaded in one area, another team member can step in and help. We support each other — and that is how we make sure every dish reaches the table on time, no matter how busy the restaurant gets.

— Is it true that chefs always taste all the food before it goes out to the guest?

— It isn’t necessary to taste every single dish, every single time — but ideally, yes, you should try.

When you have a solid recipe, clear structure, and a consistent cooking process in place — and you follow it properly — there is less need to constantly taste each plate.

But there are two things I always do: first, I double-check everything before service starts. Second, I taste all the key ingredients before we begin cooking — because they are the foundation. If the ingredients are right, everything else falls into place.

— This year, Dragonfly was selected as a Recommended restaurant in the Michelin Guide. Huge moment! Tell me — how did you first find out? Were you surprised, or was it something you were expecting?

— To be honest, I was always hoping for some kind of meaningful recognition. But at first, I didn’t believe it. Dragonfly is still quite new, and there are so many great restaurants in town — I didn’t expect it would happen so soon.

So yes, it was a surprise… but also very motivating. It pushes us to keep creating and doing more. And really — it isn't just about me. It is about the whole team. Everyone has worked so hard, under a lot of pressure. This recognition is for all of them.

— Did you celebrate with the team?

— We actually celebrate every time we get a great guest review. Anytime someone compliments a dish, we take it as a win.

But I know you are asking about a real celebration — and yes, when the Michelin news came in, we made sure to mark the moment. We got together, had a nice meal, some drinks, and just enjoyed it as a team. It was a special moment for all of us.

— You know those moments in movies when a guest asks the waiter, “Can you please call the chef?” Sometimes it is to complain, other times it is to give a compliment. Has that ever happened to you? And what is it like?

— Yes, actually — quite a few times. Guests often ask to speak with the chef. I always try to get to their table quickly. I am excited, of course, but I won’t lie — there is always a bit of nervousness too. You never know if it is going to be good or bad.

Most of the time, though, it is very positive. They just want to say thank you or share how much they enjoyed the meal. Sometimes they even come up to the kitchen themselves — we have an open kitchen, so it is easy — just to express their appreciation.

Guest feedback, whether it is praise or constructive, is always valuable. It helps me grow as a chef and better understand what people are really looking for. Sometimes I create a dish based on what I personally enjoy — but that doesn’t always align with everyone’s taste. So it is important to listen, learn, and adapt.

And to be honest, I am a very open person. If you asked me what I love most about being a chef — it is meeting people, talking to them. That is what recharges me.

— That is actually my next question — what is the most unexpected advantage of being a chef?

— As I said, one of the best things is how food helps you connect with people. When you cook something that makes someone happy, you instantly build a bond. You meet new people, form friendships, share stories. That connection — from the kitchen to the table — is something really special.

Another one is the opportunity to travel. Being a chef opens doors around the world — it is a career that is in demand everywhere. And yes, you are never really hungry — you always have something good within reach!

— What was the most meaningful compliment for you as a chef?

— For me, the best compliment is seeing happy faces at the table. When guests are smiling, that is everything.

As I mentioned, we have an open kitchen, so I usually see when the waiter brings out a new dish — and I always watch for that first reaction. Especially the first bite.

You know that moment when they really love it — they start nodding, smiling. That is the kind of feedback that means the most to me. It says more than words ever could.

— You are someone who is always at Dragonfly — how would you describe the atmosphere there?

— Honestly, it is amazing. Dragonfly is a special place. That isn't to say the places I worked before were bad — not at all. But Dragonfly has something different.

As a chef, I feel like there are no limits here. I have the freedom to experiment, to keep evolving. It is a space full of opportunity — a place where I can truly explore who I am and what I’m capable of in the kitchen. And that definitely shows in the results. When you are given the freedom to create, everything flows more smoothly — and it makes a big difference.

— Wonderful — just a quick quiz to wrap things up. What is your favourite dish on the Dragonfly menu?

— That is such a tough one — ask anyone on the team and they would probably say the same. Every dish has so much care and creativity behind it.

But personally, I have always been a fan of a good beef dish, so I would have to go with the Wagyu A5 Ribeye. Not just because it is beef, but because of everything that goes into it — the textures, the techniques, the flavours — it is a full experience on the plate.

Another one I really enjoy is a perfectly cooked piece of fish. When it is done right, it is something special.

— What do you think is the most underrated dish at Dragonfly — the one everyone should try but maybe overlooks?

— If you are into fried dishes, I would definitely recommend the Rock Shrimp Tempura. It is a simple dish, but the flavours are really well-balanced.

A lot of places serve something similar, but ours has a unique twist. It is crispy on the outside, with a rich sauce and just the right touch of citrus. Simple, but so satisfying. Definitely worth a try!

— What is the most popular dish at the restaurant?

— We have got a few favourites, but Dragonball — a roll with crab and shrimp — is a major hit. Another standout is the Black Cod with miso butter and pickled daikon. It is one of our bestsellers — people love it.

— And what dish takes the most time to prepare?

— That would be the Black Cod again. It takes almost 72 hours to get it ready. First, we receive it from the supplier, clean and fillet it, then cure it in salt overnight. The next day, it goes into a miso marinade for another 48 hours. Only after that is it ready to be cooked. It is a long process, but the flavour is worth the wait.

Another time-consuming dish is the Wagyu Short Rib — also a labour of love.

— Wow! And what about the fastest dish to prepare?

— That is the Rock Shrimp Tempura, again. We just clean the shrimp, cut it if needed, dust it with flour, dip it in batter, and fry it. Then we toss it in the sauce, plate it, add a squeeze of lime — and it is ready to go.

by Barbara Yakimchuk