There are store openings, and then there is H&M’s newly reimagined Dubai Mall flagship, which now looks so convincingly like a boutique that one almost feels the quiet drama of a red carpet moment. Dubai turned out in full force on November 6 to celebrate the unveiling, complete with a Burj Khalifa light show and an immersive art-meets-sound after-party that left even seasoned fashion veterans blinking in delighted confusion.

Between the skyline spectacle, the museum-turned-dance-floor, and the ribbon cutting attended by everyone from Alshaya Group’s leadership to H&M’s executive team, we managed to steal a moment with Ann-Sofie Johansson. As Head of Design for Womenswear and Creative Advisor at H&M, Ann-Sofie has shaped wardrobes across continents, having joined the brand back in 1987 as an in-store sales advisor before rising through roles across youth design, directional collections, and the iconic Designer Collaborations that once prompted people to queue outside stores overnight (I personally had my own camping moment for Kenzo x H&M back in 2016).

This is a woman who has worked with Balmain, Moschino, Mugler, and Rabanne, helped steer H&M Studio and Innovation Stories, and still somehow manages to sound amused, curious, and entirely enthusiastic about whatever fashion is about to do next. Naturally, we had questions.

— You have been with H&M for almost 40 years, which sounds absolutely amazing. How did this journey begin — and what made it last for so long?

— It all began with me studying design, but also art, and working extra in an H&M store to support my studies, as many students do. One day I contacted the then head of design, Margareta van den Bosch, a true icon who built the legacy that H&M’s design philosophy was founded on, and I got to show her my sketches. I then got a job as a designer in the department for the young and trendy girl, and there started my love affair with H&M — as the company has grown, so have I with it, always being challenged, staying curious, and having fun along the way.

— H&M has changed a lot over the decades. How do you see its evolution, and is there anything about the company’s growth that still surprises or excites you?

— Once we said that our global fashion fitted every market, which is partially true today, but you also need to look at local differences and what customers are looking for by listening to their needs and adapting to each market that we operate in. Many trends might be global, but there are also regional differences that we need to cater for. It is also important for us to stay relevant by working with local talents, such as the recently launched collaboration with the Mexican designer Lorena Saravia.

— I read that H&M has always been your dream. What does it feel like to actually live that dream — and keep it exciting after all these years?

— H&M is a dream for so many emerging designers and the start of a career within the industry, and I do know that for me H&M has been the greatest mentor in shaping both me and the fashion that I am part of creating together with our talented creative teams.

Over the years, I have had the privilege of working with so many creative people, really resonating with our value that we are one team — and therein lies our strength.

— These days, shopping feels like more than just buying clothes — it is about experience, community, even inspiration. How does H&M bring design and innovation together to create that feeling?

— For me, fashion has always been just that — it may have been more of a ritual in the past, but truly an experience today — that is why we put so much effort into offering the best shopping experience wherever the customer meets us: online or in-store. If you visit our reimagined store in Dubai Mall, for example, you will see that right now it is one of our best-looking stores worldwide — and you have to try the immersive fitting room, it is like a fashion party in itself.

— You work with so many different markets around the world. What makes each region special, and what is happening in the MENA region — and Dubai in particular — that excites you right now?

— For me, it is the emerging new talents and designers, having an influence not just on the region but on a global scale. It excites me to explore this further for every market that we are in.

— Dubai’s fashion scene has such a unique energy — modern, experimental, but also true to its roots. What stands out to you most about how people here approach style?

— That everyone is so stylish! It is also the way you mix traditional elements into an everyday outfit, creating new looks that transcend into the future. I very much look forward to exploring this more in the future.

— What do women in the UAE love most when it comes to fashion? Do you notice any particular styles or preferences that are unique to this region?

— As a fan of accessories myself, I get inspired when seeing women using really visible, vibrant, and colourful add-ons to their outfits. In Sweden, we might be more moderate in general, but I have seen women in the UAE being much more playful.

— You have worked with incredible designers like Balmain, Moschino, Mugler, Rabanne, and more on H&M’s collaborations. Is there one that you are especially proud of — and why?

— It has truly been an honour and a privilege to be working with these big names, and I am always most proud of the latest one as that is closest to my heart at the moment — so I would have to say Glenn Martens, who was so much fun to work with. But by saying that, we have upcoming collaborations not yet announced that I am equally excited and proud to tell more about at a later stage.

— Everyone is talking about AI these days. Do you see it as something that might threaten creativity in fashion, or more as a tool that can help designers go even further?

— AI will cut through everyone’s life in the future, if not already now — so also us. For us, it is another creative tool in the toolbox to utilise to unleash our full potential, without losing the human-centric approach.

— We have seen H&M explore modest fashion lines before — do you think there is room for that to grow, especially in markets like the UAE where modesty and modern design come together so beautifully?

— We can see that our special festive collections are appreciated far outside of the region, and that inspiration certainly goes into the creation of future collections.

— Sustainability is becoming a huge part of fashion conversations here. How is H&M bringing that mindset into design for this region?

— Sustainability is important for us wherever we are; it encompasses everything we do and is an integrated part of our design processes. There is no compromise between offering great fashion and being sustainable.

— Working within such a big global brand must come with its own pros and cons. What are the best (and maybe the trickiest) parts of designing under the H&M umbrella?

— The best part is all the creative people inhabiting the house of H&M — from the ones doing the fashion intelligence forecasts, supporting with materials, colours, and fits, and shaping our directions, to our in-house designers creating such diverse collections suiting so many vibes everywhere. The recipe is when we see that our customers appreciate what we do, and that always triggers us to look at what we can do next.

— After so many years at H&M, how do you personally stay inspired? And what advice would you give to young designers who are just starting their journeys?

— Fashion keeps moving and changing shape, evolving and turning into new things — that inspires me. Art, music, personal expression, and local cultures inspire me — there is so much out there to explore. For young, aspiring designers of today, my advice would be to stay curious, true to yourself, and to be nice to everyone — traits that can get you a long way in this industry.

— Have you ever thought about launching your own brand, or do you feel like H&M will always be your creative home?

— Actually not, I truly enjoy working for a brand that liberates fashion for the many. If not working with fashion at H&M, I would probably run my own art gallery.

— And to wrap up — what are your favourite trends for 2026? Anything we should already be keeping an eye on?

— There are so many emerging trends around the world, also in the MENA region. What I am looking forward to now is the upcoming Holiday collections, blending radiance and glitz with rich fabrics and opulent, deep colours. In due time, we have lots of other surprises to reveal that will, I believe, also excite the customers in Dubai and beyond.