Whether it is a weekend dash or a month-long stay, I always carve out time for local shopping. Call it consumerism if you like — I call it cultural research. A piece of metalwork or a hand-thrown ceramic from a niche label can tell you more about a place’s history, craft and mindset than half the blockbuster attractions — and it makes a far better souvenir than a fridge magnet. For me, it is a treasure hunt: the quiet thrill of unearthing gems you won’t just stumble across on Instagram or the big e-comm platforms.

In Japan, that instinct goes into overdrive. This is a country where precision meets playful subculture, and where “made well” is a baseline. On my recent trip, I followed the materials, found the makers, asked the nosy questions, skipped the hype — and came back with a tight edit of labels that genuinely deliver. If you are travelling to Japan, these fashion brands are the ones worth seeking out: authentic, clever, considered, occasionally subversive, and absolutely suitcase-worthy.

Spotted at: Katayama Bunzaburo Shoten Kyoto Honten Flagship Store and concept stores around the city.

At first glance, Bunzaburo reads like a sharp, indie upstart — until you learn it is a century-old family house. Founded in 1915 as a kimono maker specialising in shibori, Katayama Bunzaburo Shoten has spent three generations evolving the craft: from kimono to fashion and interiors, from tradition to quietly radical innovation, all with a commitment to preserving the long-dormant Honza Kanoko Shibori technique.

Today the line spans apparel, accessories and home pieces, all with that sculptural, springy dimensionality shibori does so well. My pick? The spiky handbags: playful, tactile, and smartly engineered — proof that heritage can still have a wicked sense of fun.

Spotted at: Concept stores in Osaka and Tokyo, including Shinsaibashi PARCO.

Quiet luxury, the Japanese way — at a surprisingly sane price point. Aeta is a minimalist leather goods label from Osaka, built on high-calibre materials and meticulous construction. Its name means “I met,” and each piece feels like that encounter made tangible: clean lines, soft structure, minimalist palette, nothing showy.

The forms are deliberately free and timeless — the kind of design that slips into your life and stays put, ready for whatever you throw in it. If you are after restraint that whispers rather than shouts, Aeta is one to seek out. Try their PG58 Bonsac and PG01 shoulder bag in grained leather (hedonists: go for white).

Spotted at: Shibuya Scramble Square Mall in Tokyo.

Currently, purchases are limited to pop-up events and the Qaneta web shop.

Born from Kaneta Orimono — a mill founded in 1964 and still weaving on lovingly maintained shuttle looms — Qaneta distils rare, high-density, high-twist, fine-count organic cottons into quietly exceptional shirts. The brand’s natural-fibre textiles have that unmistakable “firmly threaded” hand: fine-meshed, supple yet structured, softening beautifully with wear.

It is seasonless, restrained, and engineered to last. On my trip, handling their cloth was one of the most memorable sensual moments I have had with fabric — pure tactility. If you find a Qaneta shirt, know it is the finale of a year-long process from yarn to garment: rare materials and immaculate construction.

Spotted at: THE TOKYO, has monobrand stores in Aoyama and Shinjuku.

I have a soft spot for pieces that transform, and Ritan nails that brief. Think refined foundations with considered twists — details that let a single item stand alone, yet also shift how you wear it. It is versatility done properly.

The ethos is quietly confident: quality and design that spotlight your natural ease — clothes that make you feel poised and, frankly, kinder to yourself. If you want wardrobe workhorses with a graceful edge, Ritan just has to be on your route.

Spotted at: THE TOKYO, has a flagship store in Tokyo.

ENFÖLD builds its world around the concept of “hidden beauty”: clothes designed to wrap and reassure rather than perform. Think refined textures, deliberate volume, and silhouettes that soften or veil the body’s outline — elegant, effortless, and quietly indulgent for the wearer first.

With the rare mix of comfort and poise the label focuses on pieces that outlast seasons: sculpted trousers, cocooning coats, knitwear with generous drape.

Spotted at: Aoki Denim Asakusa.

A real hidden gem, Aoki Denim doesn’t shoot lookbooks, run campaigns, or even have a website — just an Instagram feed of grinning customers at a tiny shop in Asakusa.

But don’t let the low profile fool you. Step inside, handle the pieces, and you will see how beautifully the label reimagines traditional Japanese dress in denim — quietly inventive, expertly made, and genuinely (genuinely!) unique.

Spotted in: Tokyo.

If you have been eyeing tabi shoes but aren’t ready to break the bank for Maison Margiela, Japan has you covered. It is the style’s home turf, so you will find local makers offering strong versions for a fraction of that price tag.

Classic leather models: Start with No, No, Yes!. The edit is small — boots and loafers, mostly, but well made and genuinely wearable.

A twist on the main trend: Yuko Imanishi+ works with eco-minded leathers from the rawhide stage and does modern, cushioned soles. If you want something that feels a step left of centre, check their retailer list and try on in person.

Traditional styles: Marugo in Tokyo. Note that leather pairs are currently made-to-order, so you won’t be able to whisk your fancy little hooves home the same day. Textile versions are available off the shelf.