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by Dara Morgan
I Am In Love With Shanghai, And You Should Be Too
I have never wanted to go to China.
Even though I tremble when I think of its rich history, I have always believed that China would be too much for my introverted nature: too big, too loud, too overcrowded. A country that requires stamina. And earplugs.
But then I started hearing praises of Shanghai. From different people. At different times. Then I started doing kung fu (a whole different story, by the way). Then my Instagram feed decided that Michelin street food in Shanghai was exactly what my soul needed. And then I found myself on a plane, with five days of the unknown ahead and just a small suitcase full of doubts.
Spoiler: none of my doubts (or prejudices) were right.
Spoiler 2: Shanghai is nothing like you expect it to be.
Spoiler 3: it is the kind of city you might suddenly want to move to.
But we will get back to that. Let's start with the basics.
How to get there
The journey isn't a short one. A direct flight from the UAE to Shanghai takes between eight and eleven hours, which is just enough time to question all your life choices and then get very excited.
You can fly with China Eastern or Emirates from DXB, or with Etihad from AUH. Prices usually start around 3,900 AED. There are also options with stopovers in Qatar or Bahrain, starting from approximately 3,400 AED for a return trip.
Views of Shanghai
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Views of Shanghai
Where to stay
Shanghai possesses a quadrillion accommodation options, ranging from extremely budget-friendly to unapologetically luxurious.
Many hotels are located around People’s Square, one of the city’s main tourist hubs, right next to the famously crowded Nanjing Road. If you enjoy hustle and bustle, want a truly touristic experience, and plan to shop in a giant adidas store (with, quite possibly, the best Originals section I have ever seen) or lose your inner child in a massive Pop Mart, then Huangpu District is your place.
I can't help mentioning this option. And yet my heart tells me this isn't it.
What I really recommend is staying in the French Concession, a historical district administered by France from 1849 to 1943. Not because it feels like a little Europe, but because it feels like nowhere else. It isn't Paris. It isn't China as you imagine it. It is an eclectic miracle with its own rhythm, character, and quiet confidence.
Photo 1: The French Concession; Photos 2&3: Xuhui District, and St Ignatius Cathedral
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Photo 1: The French Concession; Photos 2&3: Xuhui District, and St Ignatius Cathedral
If you prefer something in between, Jing’an should be your choice. It is modern, vibrant, full of attractions, and very much alive (like the entire city). Also, the Louis Vuitton ship is parked nearby, which is reason enough to book a room.
I personally stayed in Xuhui District, near St Ignatius Cathedral. Yes, a Catholic church surrounded by modern skyscrapers looks just as impressive as it sounds. This area is calm, well connected, close to the French Concession, and offers an excellent price-quality balance.
One important thing to remember: Shanghai has outstanding transport infrastructure. The metro is efficient, buses are plentiful, and taxis are very affordable (we used DiDi throughout the trip). Choose with your heart. You will get everywhere easily.
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The Louis ship
What to eat
Well. Everything.
Chinese food may seem intense at first glance, but the more you try, the higher the chances you will fall in love. Will it be crab roe from the Michelin-recognised Ren He Guan? Hong Kong–style duck? Crispy rice drowned in rich, deeply flavoured beef? Marinated eggs? Endless noodles (the portions are, somehow, always impossible to finish)? Signature shengjian bao, crispy-bottom buns Shanghainese eat for breakfast? Wontons? Perfectly cooked bok choy?
My main recommendation is street food and small local spots that look more like family diners than restaurants. As always, stay away from tourist routes. The food there will disappoint you, and your wallet will feel personally offended.
Of course, there are plenty of international cuisine options as well. Use the local app AMap to find them. Google Maps is banned in China and, even when it works, it lies.
Dinner at Ren He Guan (1 Michelin star); Chinese-Japanese fusion cuisine; Snack from the local supermarket
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Dinner at Ren He Guan (1 Michelin star); Chinese-Japanese fusion cuisine; Snack from the local supermarket
And finally, coffee. Yes. Coffee.
Shanghai has an impressive coffee culture, with speciality coffee shops scattered all over the city. Among chains, Manner Coffee is perfect for grabbing a cup on the go. If you are a true gourmand, try Parking Coffee spot (1220 Huaihai Middle Road): slightly more expensive, highly awarded, and very serious about coffee. I also loved No Filter (Wuyuan Road), a place somewhere between a café and a bar, clearly designed for the young and fashionable crowd.
Must try? Signature Dirty coffee, which is made by pouring hot espresso directly over very cold milk in a chilled glass, creating a perfect layered moment where the dark, intense coffee floats on top before slowly surrendering and mixing in. 100% delicious, 100% insta-worthy.
Millenial dream of coffee every hour comes true in Shanghai
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Millenial dream of coffee every hour comes true in Shanghai
What to visit
You can easily google the main landmarks: the Bund with its iconic views, the Pearl TV Tower (especially impressive at night), Shanghai City God Temple, Yu Garden, Disneyland. They are all worth visiting.
But what I enjoyed most was simply wandering. Walking without a plan. Watching the city change from district to district.
One moment you are strolling through the leafy alleys of the French Concession. Turn a corner, and there is a giant mall surrounded by skyscrapers. Turn another corner, and you are on a wide avenue with fewer people and more locals living their lives. Some areas feel overwhelming and theatrical (tourist zones, most likely). Others look polished and extravagant, as if lifted from a film set. Then suddenly you are in a grounded neighbourhood with street vendors selling vegetables and fresh fish.
I couldn't stop comparing. This reminds me of Dubai. Of Bangkok. Of Moscow. Of Paris. And then, one second later, it reminds me of nothing at all.
Shanghai is magical. It has dozens of faces, and I doubt I saw even half of them.
China Art Museum; City God Temple area; The French Concession
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China Art Museum; City God Temple area; The French Concession
Still, a few things truly impressed me and deserve a spot on your list:
- Night river cruise — a 40-minute ride offering incredible views. Be prepared to stand, as seating is limited.
- Nanjing Road — immerse yourself in the crowd for an hour. It will be loud, chaotic, and impressive. You will be very happy to leave afterwards, but full of impressions.
- China Art Museum — the exhibition itself isn't mind-blowing, but the building absolutely is. Worth it, one hundred per cent.
- Louis Vuitton ship — enormous, dramatic, and genuinely impressive. Designed as a cultural landmark celebrating travel heritage, it includes exhibitions, a café, and retail spaces. Yes, it looks like a cruise liner made of stacked trunks. And yes, it works.
Different faces of Shanghai
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Different faces of Shanghai
Where to shop
There is no shortage of malls. I once walked past a Gucci store in Xuhui District, and encountered another one less than seven minutes later.
Luxury brands are everywhere if you want them. But, once again, I was searching for something more authentic, and I found it in the French Concession. Small boutiques featuring Chinese and Korean brands, each with its own personality, great quality, and genuinely interesting design. My personal favourite was Ying on Fuxing Road.
Keep in mind that the Chinese market is special. Many international brands offer exclusive collections here. My highlight of the trip was an adidas Originals collection dedicated to the Year of the Fire Horse.
Trying on a trenchcoat at Ying; Collective 22 concept store; Souvenirs hunting
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Trying on a trenchcoat at Ying; Collective 22 concept store; Souvenirs hunting
What to remember
I will give a proper, detailed guide on how to prepare for your first trip to China later. For now, here are a few essential tips:
- Install Alipay in advance, verify your identity, and add your card. Cash works sometimes, but some services like taxi just won't work without Alipay.
- Buy a tourist SIM card at the airport or install an eSIM beforehand. The first option is more reliable. Trust me.
- Be ready for the fact that most people outside tourist routes don't speak English. Like at all. Online translators will become your best friends.
- Enjoy it fully. Because China, and Shanghai in particular, feels like a different world. And it is magnificent.
Shanghai surprised me. Completely. And now I am in love. You might be too.
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