Vichy, the Iconic Pattern: What Story Does It Have?

by Sophie She

Vichy, the Iconic Pattern: What Story Does It Have?

17 Jul 2024

Origin and Meaning of the Vichy Pattern

Vichy, also known as gingham, is a plain-woven fabric traditionally made from dyed cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Originally, when gingham was imported into Europe from Southeast Asia in the 17th century, it was characterised by its striped pattern. The name gingham is believed to derive from the Malay word “genggang,” meaning striped. Over time, however, the pattern evolved into the iconic chequered design we associate with Vichy today.

The name Vichy has attributed to multiple origins. One version points to the French town of Vichy, renowned for its spa and Art Deco architecture. Vichy became a significant administrative centre during World War II, which coincided with the fabric's rise in popularity, as people were re-using everything and making clothes out of tableware was an everyday thing. Another theory suggests the name may have originated from the village of Guingamp in Brittany, France. The transition from stripes to checks occurred when English mills in Manchester began producing the print in its now-familiar chequered design in the mid-18th century.

The Evolution and Popularity of Vichy Pattern

Initially used for household items like tablecloths and napkins in the French region of La Provence, the Vichy pattern transitioned to apparel post-World War II. By 1946, Vichy checks became popular for men's and women's shirts, particularly among those working in the fields. The pattern's leap from domestic to fashion spheres marked the beginning of its widespread appeal.

The 1950s saw a significant boost in the Vichy pattern's popularity, thanks in part to French actress Brigitte Bardot. In 1959, Bardot wore a pink and white Vichy check wedding dress designed by Jacques Esterel for her wedding to Jacques Charrier. This unconventional choice made the pattern synonymous with Bardot, enhancing its allure and cementing its association with feminine charm.

Vichy Pattern in Film and Fashion

The Wizard of Oz, 1939, Judy Garland

The Vichy pattern has been a staple in the movie industry since the early 20th century. In 1939, Judy Garland's iconic blue gingham dress in "The Wizard of Oz" showcased the pattern's charm.

The Philadelphia Story, 1940, Katharine Hepburn; To Have and Have Not, 1944, Lauren Bacall

Katharine Hepburn's gingham dress in "The Philadelphia Story" (1940) and Lauren Bacall's Vichy suit in "To Have and Have Not" (1944) further elevated its status.

Notorious, 1946, Ingrid Bergman

In 1946, Ingrid Bergman wore a Vichy-patterned jacket in Alfred Hitchcock's "Notorious," adding to its cinematic appeal.

Bardot's wedding dress

In France, Bardot's use of the Vichy pattern in various films and her wedding dress significantly influenced fashion. Jacques Ouaki's incorporation of the Vichy pattern into the logo for Tati Shops in Paris introduced it to prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) fashion, solidifying its dual identity as both a utilitarian fabric and a fashion statement.

Jane Birkin

The 60s and 70s saw an explosion of Vichy prints in fashion. Actresses and celebrities such as Sue Lyon in "Lolita" (1962), Marilyn Monroe, and Jane Birkin in "The Swimming Pool" (1969) donned the pattern, further embedding it into popular culture.

Linda Evangelista on the Versace runway, 1992; Melanie Griffith in "Crazy in Alabama”, 1999

In the 80s and 90s, Vichy checks made periodic reappearances in fashion, maintaining their status as a classic. Memorable looks include Melanie Griffith in "Crazy in Alabama" (1999) and Linda Evangelista on the Versace runway.

Modern Resurgence and Celebrity Endorsement

Today, Vichy patterns are reimagined each season by designers and embraced by fashion enthusiasts worldwide. The fabric's versatility allows it to be used in a variety of garments, from summer dresses to chic blouses and accessories.

Vichy fabric seamlessly adapts to different silhouettes and styles, lending a touch of sophistication to any ensemble. It's a fabric that can effortlessly transition from casual daywear to elegant evening attire.

Jacquemus Open Front Gingham Shirt. Source: farfetch.com

Contemporary fashion also sees a growing trend towards sustainable Vichy fabrics made from organic cotton, European linen, and recycled wool, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.

Predictions on the Future Popularity of Vichy Pattern

The Vichy pattern's enduring appeal suggests it will continue to be a staple in fashion. Its association with iconic figures and its adaptability to modern designs ensure its relevance across generations. As sustainable fashion gains momentum, the timeless and durable qualities of Vichy fabric align well with the trend towards more ethical consumption.

Lately, colourful checked clothes have been seen every day, both on holiday and in the city. This resurgence of the Vichy pattern, often associated with domestic environments and picnics, indicates its recurring charm. Celebrities and fashion bloggers adore it, and brands offer a multitude of variants, making it a classic motif suitable for anyone, at any age, and for every occasion.

by Sophie She