by Sandy Staff
Salwa: Meet the Jewelry Brand Inspired by Middle Eastern Architecture
31 Aug 2024
Earlier this year, the Salwa brand appeared in the Emirates' jewelry market — a minimalist brand inspired by architecture, with pieces made from silver. But that is not all: it is a brand that tells stories. But how can jewelry tell a story? What stories do they tell? And how is it all connected to architecture? Let's find out.
Salwa is a female name in Arab countries. It translates from Urdu as “solace” and “comfort,” as well as “something that makes you forget your sadness and worries.”
"Initially, we considered various names — typical for architects, different combinations with the word 'black.' Then we dismissed those, not wanting to be cliché. We came across the word Salwa by chance and then learned what it meant — it was an instant match. Funnily enough, sometimes people write to us on Instagram, wanting to order something, and think there's a woman named Salwa behind the brand, so they write 'Hello, Salwa!'"— says Maria Iakovleva, co-founder of the brand.
Who is behind Salwa? Salwa is a family business founded by two women — Maria Iakovleva and Helen Belorybkina, a designer and an architect. At some point, they realised they couldn't find a place in the Emirates where they would want to buy jewelry. So they just started making it. They design the pieces themselves, and local artisans manufacture them. All Salwa jewelry is made from 925 sterling silver — and the quality of the metal is such that the jewelry doesn’t tarnish with wear — it can be worn in water and in the sun.
Maria: "We chose silver because we wanted to create a brand that resonates with us, one whose jewelry we would proudly wear ourselves. We personally prefer silver. Another reason is that we envision our jewelry as talismans, embodiments of purity and positivity. In the realm of energy, silver is associated with cleanliness and the removal of negative influences. Compared to gold, silver is a lighter, purer material that's fascinating to work with. It's malleable like clay, yet it possesses a distinct character. Each challenge in crafting with silver reveals its unique beauty."
If you were born in the Middle East, the brand's jewelry will definitely remind you of something. But what exactly? Hint: Middle Eastern architecture, familiar to everyone who grew up here.
Maria: "Architecture was our starting point because we're passionate about everything it entails. We devoted a lot of time to exploring how we could represent architectural elements in our jewelry. Our options ranged from rococo to brutalism — any style was on the table. Ultimately, we focused on Middle Eastern architecture and delved into the stories it tells.”
But Salwa is not just about Middle Eastern architecture. The brand's jewelry tells the personal stories of those born and raised in this region.
Maria: “We wanted to challenge the stereotypes of the Middle East as just a land of wealth, deserts, camels, and sheikhs. Instead, our collection celebrates the region's rich narratives and the individual stories of its people. It begins with the concept of home — where life starts. From there, as individuals grow and work, they move closer to their goals. Alongside their personal journeys, the cities around them evolve into bustling metropolises. The core message of our first collection, 'This is where I came from', is You should work towards your dream.”
The "This is Where I Came From" collection features three rings — Home, Pearl, and Strike. Each one, individually and collectively, tells a unique story.
“Home” ring
In the Middle East, home and family are paramount. Arches, a fundamental element of Arab architecture, symbolise both the sanctity of the home and protection from the heat. These arched vaults are a lifelong companion, always evoking the sense of home.
Maira: “The 'Home' ring is the first in our collection, setting the narrative. Everything begins at home, and so does our story.”
“Pearl” ring
The second ring in the collection pays homage to the traditional pearl divers who once thrived in this region. It is also a tribute to hard work, dedication to quality, and the importance of continual learning.
“Strike” ring
What comes to mind when you think of Dubai? Skyscrapers. The cylinders that form the "Strike" ring represent these structures. This ring reflects the city's evolution into a bustling metropolis and symbolises personal growth — showing that anyone can rise to great heights with hard work and dedication.
The second collection of the brand, the Seocho Collection, features ten unique pieces. This line is a fresh take, crafted in Korea and incorporating new elements like natural stones.
Seocho Collection: Garakji ring, Norigae, Zen and Balance rings
But Salwa is more than just a jewelry brand with collections. If you visit Salwa's Instagram, you will see it operates as an atelier, working not only with silver but also with a variety of metals and stones. Here, you can even customise jewelry to fit your personal style perfectly.
Maria: "We're planning to reissue some of our jewelry in platinum and creatively inlay them with diamonds. We also aim to launch a premium line featuring jewelry made of yellow gold, responding to the strong demand for it."
Bonus Announcement: Salwa to Launch New Clothing Line
This fall, Salwa is branching out with an exciting new venture — they're launching a clothing line. This initiative will be in collaboration with a designer from Tunisia, whose name will be revealed later.
Maria: "The concept for this collection sprang from the same need that initially inspired Salwa. One summer day in Dubai, as I dashed to a business meeting in formal attire, I was struck by the intense heat. It made me wonder: why isn't there formal wear that's suitable for meetings or office settings yet comfortable enough for such heat and made from natural materials? This niche seemed largely unfilled. Holding this thought, I later met with a designer friend, and we clicked instantly, deciding to collaborate."
This collaboration is a natural progression of the Seocho collection, which draws inspiration from Asia. The new clothing line will feature two kimonos: one for casual wear and the other for the office.
Maria: "The first kimono will be floor-length, evoking the feel of a European fall where you might wear a bulky coat and rush through the streets with a coffee in hand. We've reinterpreted this familiar scene into our unique design.
The second kimono offers a stylish alternative for the office, aimed at those who wish to steer clear of the typical office blazers and stand out."
Crafted from natural materials, these kimonos will not only serve as functional garments but also as art pieces, each making a statement about balancing professional commitments with personal flair and inner strength.
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