How Did Beirut Become a Fashion Hub?

by Christelle EL-Daher

How Did Beirut Become a Fashion Hub?

16 Sept 2024

Instagram: @maisondumec

The Lebanese are renowned for their great aesthetic taste. The post-WWII economic boom and a strong banking sector certainly helped them to shape their country into the pearl of the Middle East that captured the hearts and souls of every single visitor. Therefore, their craftsmanship and know-how were highly sought after, and their services became highly coveted. Fashion is another discipline in which they forged their reputation. Nowadays, Lebanese fashion, footwear and accessories designers, illustrators, jewelry makers, stylists, and make-up artists are essential to all fashion-related activities at the regional level. Lebanese event organisers, PR managers, journalists, bloggers, photographers, videographers, and merchandisers are an integral part of all international fashion weeks. How did they reach this status? Far from being a straightforward rise, the turbulent 65-year journey that cemented Beirut as a fashion hub can be divided into three different periods.

The Golden era: 1950s and 60s

In those days, Set El Dounia Beirut had reached its pinnacle. During these gilded years, the mot d’ordre (watchword) was lavish social gatherings and parties. No place became more synonymous with la dolce vita in Lebanon more than the Sursock Mansion, the residency of the most famous aristocratic family in the land. Taking place in the chic neighbourhood of Achrafieh, the Gatsbyesque parties were the highlight of everybody’s social calendar, and the guest list included poets, writers, musicians, politicians, wealthy Arab businessmen and royals from different parts of the world. It goes without saying that the best-dressed contest was always a tight race.

Source: sursockpalace.com

At the same time, Arab cinema was booming, and Beirut became the ideal vacation spot for the grand majority of the silver screen’s rising stars. When visiting, they brought with them their sequence and sparkling dresses to be perfectly captured by the camera flashes. A new milestone was reached when the nascent Casino du Liban hosted the 23rd edition of Miss Europe in 1960. The event attracted the attention of international media and magazines like Vogue, which immortalised the runway of gowns that were on display in Lebanon’s answer to the Monte Carlo Casino.

Moreover, Lebanese top models were on the rise. Names like Andree Accouri, Mona Yammine Ross and Silvana Badrakhan walked for heritage European labels and graced their runways. In that period, Beirut was known for being a cosmopolitan city whose residents propelled it into the lofty position of the Arab world fashion hub. Back then, the Lebanese designers hadn’t acquired yet the notoriety that they enjoy today. Nevertheless, there were some prominent names in the making, such as Jacques Cassia and William Khoury.

The renaissance years: 1990-2000

After falling off the edge of the fashion world due to the Lebanese Civil War, Beirut made its great comeback as it was rising from its ashes. Elie Saab’s interview for an international fashion magazine where his beautiful bridal collection was photographed in the streets of the city, floating like graceful angels breathing new life in bullet-torn buildings, the capital and its people. At the same time, Tony Ward, another acclaimed designer, had finished his studies at L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris and moved back to Lebanon. Robert Abi Nader and Fouad Sarkis were also among the well-known names who reaped the rewards of their labour during the troubled war years by showcasing their collections in Paris and opening showrooms and ateliers in the newly rebuilt downtown. The new heart of Lebanon also attracted many international labels like Chanel, Dior, Hermes, and Rolex among others. Beirut became a fashion hub for local and international designers. Meanwhile, the rise of Mondanité, the OG Lebanese lifestyle and social magazine, contributed to the vast popularity of high fashion and glamour. The ladies always wanted to look their best and wear different new designer outfits each night for the photographers. On the international stage, the creations of Lebanese designers, such as Zuhair Murad and Georges Chakra, became staples on international red carpets.

Moreover, during that time, reality TV shows were at their peak worldwide. Lebanon had its fair share of them, like “Star Academy” and “Mission Fashion”. The later show involved two simultaneous competition titles, one for designers and another for models. Daily recaps aired around 7 o’clock every night, introducing viewers to the mesmerising world of fashion design. The program was also broadcast by Arab channels, thus contributing to Beirut’s status as a regional fashion hub once again.

The emerging days: 2020s

Despite facing an epic economic and financial meltdown that has been labelled as one of the three worst crises in the last 150 years, the Lebanese fashion scene witnessed a huge breath of fresh air and the emergence of many new talents. The ongoing crisis, which started in 2019, had two blessings: Lebanese people started shopping locally more frequently, and it sparked an interest in small indie labels. Despite operating in a sub-optimal environment, local labels and designers like Maison Du Mec, Ahmad Amer, Cynthia Merhej, and Salim Azzam managed to export themselves, show themselves during Dubai Fashion Week, or win Fashion Trust Arabia awards. These achievements have sent a strong signal and brought back the Arab and international attention to the country.

Ahmad Amer, Maison Du Mec, and Salim Azzam

In my opinion, the Lebanese fashion scene is at its strongest nowadays. Having sustainable local production houses like Atelier Miqias and design schools that offer free or very accessible education, like Creative Space Beirut and Majal Design School, can only solidify the foundations of this revival.

Instagram: @creativespacebeirut

Fashion is an integral part of society and what transpires in it. Fashion is the clothes we live in, the clothes we wear throughout the day, and the clothes that indicate our lifestyles. Beirut shaped and cemented its fashion legacy by simply being Beirut, a reflection of its joyful, outgoing, cultured, life — and beauty-loving people.

by Christelle EL-Daher