6 Lebanese Designers Redefining Creativity Across Borders

by Dina Fares

6 Lebanese Designers Redefining Creativity Across Borders

14 Oct 2024

Lebanon has faced a relentless series of crises in recent years. From the catastrophic Beirut Port explosion in 2020 to an ongoing financial crisis and the ever-present threat of political instability, not to mention war, life in Lebanon has been a constant struggle. These challenges have made everyday survival difficult, let alone creative expression.

Yet, in the face of adversity, Lebanon’s designers have shown incredible resilience. Their passion for fashion, art, and culture has not wavered, even as they rebuild their lives and businesses from the ground up. Despite the immense hardships, these designers continue to express their creativity, using fashion as both a form of resistance and a beacon of hope. Their work reflects the complexity of their circumstances while celebrating the spirit of perseverance. Here, we shine a light on Lebanese designers who are breaking boundaries and proving that no crisis can extinguish the power of creativity.

Jean Bou Doumit of Jean327

Jean Bou Doumit is a versatile Lebanese designer who has made his mark in multiple creative fields, including architecture and fashion. His brand, Jean327, which launched in 2021, has quickly grown to be a beacon of innovation in the Lebanese fashion landscape. Known for its minimalist aesthetic with a twist, Jean327 focuses on stripping back design to the essentials while offering comfort and discreet details that speak to modern sensibilities.

The brand's philosophy centres on simplicity, making it relatable to today's consumers who often lead fast-paced lives. However, what sets Jean327 apart is the powerful narrative woven into its collections. Doumit's latest collection, "Scarecrow," is a profound blend of fashion and activism. Each piece in the collection symbolises resilience, standing as a shield against racism and injustice. "Scarecrow," Doumit explains, is “a timeless ode to strength and solidarity. Refined in its design yet effortless in its execution, these pieces offer comfort without compromising on style.” Through the collection, Doumit highlights his commitment to merging fashion with social commentary.

Jean’s vision for Jean327 extends beyond creating clothing. He hopes to build a community that celebrates individuality and acceptance. With his innovative designs and commitment to social issues, Jean327 is set to transcend regional boundaries and appeal to a global audience, seeking meaningful fashion that resonates on both an aesthetic and ideological level.

Lara Khoury of LARAKHOURY

Lara Khoury is a force in the Lebanese fashion world, known for her avant-garde designs that challenge traditional norms. Khoury started her brand LARAKHOURY in 2008, during a time when Beirut’s fashion industry was thriving. Her designs, known for their bold and experimental nature, gained widespread acclaim, with a dedicated clientele across the Arab world. However, the 2019 Lebanese revolution, the pandemic, and the 2020 Beirut explosion disrupted her work, forcing her to take a three-year hiatus to recalibrate her vision.

Khoury re-launched with a fresh perspective. Her renewed focus emphasises individuality and empowerment, offering fashion that allows people to express their unique identities. "LARAKHOURY is all about freedom, liberation, and self-expression. Our designs are bold, avant-garde, and timeless, combining structured elements with fluidity to reflect the tension between breaking free from societal constraints and embracing individuality,” she says. Sustainability plays a pivotal role in her latest collection, which features up-cycled materials and eco-friendly fabrics.

Khoury’s vision for LARAKHOURY is to continue empowering individuals who use fashion as a medium for self-expression. Her avant-garde, rebellious designs resonate with those unafraid to break free from the ordinary, and her commitment to innovation ensures that her brand will continue to grow both in the Arab world and beyond.

Salim Cherfane of Jeux de Mains

Salim Cherfane is a multidisciplinary creative whose brand, Jeux de Mains, blends fashion with powerful narratives. Born and raised in Beirut, Cherfane’s early career focused on graphic design and art direction, which eventually evolved into fashion, marked by his bold use of colour and intricate patterns. Jeux de Mains reflects Cherfane’s ability to turn everyday stories into playful yet profound design statements.

Jeux de Mains’ latest collection, titled "Curse of The East," speaks to the struggles faced by many Arabs in regions plagued by political instability and war. Cherfane draws inspiration from the turmoil in places like Beirut and Gaza, using fashion as a medium to express resilience and the desire for normalcy amidst crisis. After a three-year break following the devastating Beirut Port explosion, Cherfane has returned with renewed energy, aiming to continue telling the stories of the East through his bold and playful designs. "This new collection is my statement that no matter how often we are forced to stop, we will always rise again and continue creating,” he says.

Cherfane’s work has garnered international attention, with high-profile clients like Beyoncé wearing his creations. His signature aesthetic is known for its vibrant colors, playful use of prints, and an overarching theme of storytelling that has attracted both fashion enthusiasts and celebrities alike. With his multidisciplinary approach and international acclaim, Cherfane aims to elevate Jeux de Mains into a global fashion powerhouse.

Roni Helou of RONI HELOU

Roni Helou is a conscious fashion designer who bridges the gap between sustainability, activism, and fashion. Helou’s career began after graduating from Creative Space Beirut, a progressive school offering free design education. His designs quickly gained recognition, and he was featured at prestigious fashion events such as Fashion Forward Dubai and the Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks in 2020, 2021, and 2024.

Helou's brand is deeply rooted in sustainability, with a strong focus on using deadstock, vintage, and organic materials. His design philosophy revolves around modernising traditional Lebanese silhouettes, creating collections that appeal to the vibrant lifestyles of today’s youth. “I explore a range of silhouettes, modernising Lebanese wardrobe staples with a contemporary twist, incorporating elements like volume, intricate beadwork, and accessories, all while prioritising the use of deadstock, vintage, and organic materials,” says Helou of his approach to design.

What sets Helou apart is his dedication to activism, particularly in human rights and sustainability. He frequently collaborates with like-minded individuals and organisations to raise awareness about these issues through his fashion. As he looks to the future, Helou hopes to expand his brand both regionally and internationally, staying true to his values while ensuring its sustainability in the competitive global fashion market.

Ahmed Amer of Amer

Ahmed Amer, the creative force behind the brand Amer, is known for his gender-fluid designs and artistic storytelling. The brand’s identity stems from the complexity and contrast of life, reflected in both its name — derived from Amer’s family name and the French word for “bitter” — and its intricate design philosophy. Amer embraces the bittersweet nature of life, weaving together personal stories, emotions, and memories to create designs that are as thoughtful as they are stylish.

Amer's latest collection, "Convergence," is a deeply personal reflection of the emotional collapse he experienced due to the ongoing crises in Lebanon and around the world. Inspired by the keffiyeh, a symbol of Palestinian resistance, the collection uses grid prints and embroidery to represent the process of rebuilding from fragmented memories. Describing the emotional depth of his work, Amer says, “This collection marks a transition, gathering the remnants of memories, stories, milestones, and values and weaving them together to build a new steady foundation.”

Amer’s work is not limited to fashion. His designs are a form of activism, highlighting the struggles faced by his community while offering hope and resilience through creativity. His vision for the brand is to expand beyond fashion, turning Amer into a lifestyle brand that encompasses clothing, art, and homeware. Amer’s commitment to craftsmanship, combined with his unique artistic vision, positions the brand to grow into a global name in the fashion industry.

Marilyn Bouchakjian of Mabouch

Marilyn Bouchakjian, a fashion buyer turned designer, brings her keen eye for trends and timeless style to her brand, Mabouch. With years of experience curating collections through her previous venture, 'Trunk Concept Store' in Beirut, Bouchakjian has transitioned from fashion buying into the design world with a fresh and effortless approach. Mabouch focuses on creating wardrobe staples that are chic, versatile, and enduring, avoiding seasonal trends in favour of timeless elegance.

Each collection from Mabouch begins with an exploration of contemporary wardrobe essentials, redefining what constitutes a classic piece and rediscovering it. "Essentials for us are compelling styles that have a significant use as well as a style that can easily become an indispensable classic," Bouchakjian explains. Her designs prioritise quality and creativity, offering garments that effortlessly transition from day to night, ensuring that wearers look polished in any setting. Sustainability is also embedded into the core of Mabouch’s values, with the brand continuously working to incorporate responsible practices into its production processes.

With her new collection, Bouchakjian celebrates elegance and sophistication, creating pieces that embody timeless style with versatile functionality. Her vision for the future is to see Mabouch grow into a globally recognised symbol of refined elegance. "I’d love to see it worn by influential figures... like Cate Blanchett or Zendaya, known for their impeccable style and grace," she says, envisioning the brand on fashion icons at prestigious events.

The resilience of Lebanese designers is a testament to the unbreakable spirit of creativity, even in the face of overwhelming adversity. As they push boundaries and challenge norms, they are not just contributing to the global fashion scene; they’re also telling the world that Lebanon’s creative pulse beats stronger than ever.

by Dina Fares