Imagine finding tiny needles in your face cream. A few years ago, that would have sounded scandalous, but today it reflects how far skincare has moved. Meet spicules — the latest buzzy ingredient that’s made the leap from Korean beauty labs into mainstream skincare, promising smoother skin with just a slight tingle as a side effect. But before you panic or click ‘add to cart’, here is what you need to know.

Essentially, spicules are microscopic, needle-like particles designed to support exfoliation and help active ingredients absorb more effectively. They are usually derived from marine or plant sources and, when applied topically, create tiny pathways on the skin’s surface, and work on upper skin layers.

You can think of spicules as a very (very) toned-down cousin of microneedling. When massaged into the skin, they form micro-channels on the surface, encouraging light exfoliation and making it easier for active ingredients to reach where they are meant to go. They don’t penetrate the skin nearly as deeply as professional microneedling, but the underlying idea is similar.

The result isn’t instant perfection, but gradual improvements in skin texture and brightness — the kind you notice after a few uses rather than one brave evening.

This is where expectations matter. Spicules typically cause a mild prickling or tingling sensation that can last anywhere from a few minutes to a couple of hours. It is noticeable but not painful, and it is part of how the ingredient works.

That said, persistent burning, redness or irritation isn’t normal. If your skin feels more offended than stimulated, it is best to stop and give it a break.

Spicule products aren’t meant for daily use. Once or twice a week is usually enough. Avoid combining them with strong acids or retinoids in the same routine, and follow with calming, barrier-supporting products. Sun protection the next day is essential — exfoliation increases sensitivity, even when skin feels fine.

It is also crucial to build your routine around the specific product you are using. Skincare containing spicules usually comes with detailed instructions on dosage, frequency and gradual introduction. Even if you are experienced with active ingredients, this isn't the step to freestyle.

It isn't impossible for skin to respond to spicules with breakouts, dryness or irritation — especially if they are used incorrectly. This happens because spicules push the skin into a more intense regeneration and exfoliation process than it is used to, and in many cases the reaction is temporary.

Overuse, pairing spicules with strong actives, or applying them to already compromised skin makes these issues more likely. Mild tingling is expected; ongoing redness, burning or sensitivity isn’t. If that happens, stop, focus on barrier repair, and give your skin time to reset.

For now, data on spicules in skincare is still limited. There is evidence suggesting that they can enhance the delivery and bioavailability of active ingredients, but their effectiveness largely depends on what those spicules are paired with. In other words, they are a delivery tool rather than a standalone solution — and results will vary accordingly.