Louise Trotter: The New Era Of Carven

Live:STR SELECTIONS

by Sana Bun

Louise Trotter: The New Era Of Carven

10 Nov 2024

If you ask me about my main fashion highlights of the past year, I will undoubtedly place Carven’s renaissance in the talented hands of Louise Trotter at the very top of the list. As the first female designer to lead the brand in its modern era, she has opened a captivating new chapter that beautifully balances Carven’s legacy with modern simplicity, making the French house truly shine again. Let us take a closer look at the creative mind behind this extraordinary revival.

The Background

Louise Trotter’s journey in fashion has been nothing short of a whirlwind, taking her across countries and continents. The British designer kicked off her adventure studying marketing and design in the UK, before diving headfirst into her career at Whistles, where she flourished into the buying and design director.

The next stop was the US. Here, she took on the role of vice president of womenswear design at Gap, then went on to make her mark at Calvin Klein as head of womenswear and later continued with a design role at Tommy Hilfiger.

In 2007, Trotter returned to the British fashion scene as creative director at Jigsaw. Just two years later, she packed her bags again, this time heading to Paris to take the helm at Joseph, succeeding the founder of the multi-brand powerhouse and reinvigorating its eponymous in-house brand.

Instagram: @louise_trotter_

The adventure continued in 2018 when the designer made a splash as the first female creative director of Lacoste, bringing her unique vision and flair to yet another iconic brand before joining Carven in 2023.

Instagram: @louise_trotter_

Carven before Trotter

Carven has a rich yet turbulent history. Founded in 1945 by Madame Carven, the brand took a non-conformist approach from the start. While post-war French fashion moved toward opulence, embracing ultra-feminine silhouettes with cinched waists and voluminous skirts, Madame Carven chose a different path. As one of the pioneers of ready-to-wear, she focused on creating stylish, accessible garments for real women. Being petite herself and often struggling to find clothes that suited her frame, she designed pieces that complement smaller figures. For decades, Carven embodied a youthful, joyful spirit that resonated with women looking for chic, wearable style.

Madame Carven retired in the 1990s, and afterwards, the brand struggled to stay relevant, cycling through multiple creative changes. Each new direction brought a fresh perspective, yet none truly captured the essence that had once defined the brand.

In 2009, Guillaume Henry relaunched Carven, bridging the gap between its storied past and a new generation of consumers. His use of bold colours and unexpected fabric combinations, all grounded in practical yet classic silhouettes, reconnected Carven with contemporary tastes. But after Henry’s departure in 2014, the brand faced a difficult period marked by numerous creative shifts that struggled to sustain the momentum he had built. Financial difficulties soon followed, leading to Carven’s entry into administration in 2018. The brand was ultimately acquired by the Chinese group Icicle, which set out to reinvigorate Carven with a fresh strategy and renewed resources.

The New Era

Carven needed a fresh perspective — someone who could connect its rich history with a bold, forward-thinking vision. Louise Trotter became that person. In 2023, after several years away from the runway, the brand made a triumphant return with the Spring 2024 collection under her creative direction. Trotter has revitalised Carven from both a visual and strategic standpoint, honouring Madame Carven’s heritage by merging the spirit of freedom, joy, and confident femininity that defined the original label with contemporary simplicity.

Source: carven.com

So, what makes Carven and Louise Trotter a match made in heaven? Beyond her obvious talent and skillful work with the archives and positioning, it is Trotter’s genuine understanding of real women living in the real world. Like Madame Carven, she designs for modern heroines, creating garments that reflect a deep understanding of their relationship with clothing. Trotter crafts pieces with a clear purpose: to offer comfort, calmness, confidence, and sophistication, and this approach just wins the hearts.

Missing out on the coolest events in Dubai? We know where you’ll be in November: The Crowd Test Festival — the very first Art and Music Festival by The Sandy Times.

The lineup is incredible: Mainline Magic Orchestra from Spain, Eden Burns from New Zealand, and a lot of your favourite DJs like Hani J, Hassan Alwan, Bazzzuk, and more.

Mark your calendar, snag your tickets, and get ready: November 16, 2024, from 5 PM to 3 AM at Monkey Bar, Dubai.

by Sana Bun