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by Barbara Yakimchuk

How To Shop Vintage Like You Know What You Are Doing

6 Jan 2026

Photo: Fellipe Ditadi

It is hard to say whether this shift is driven by sustainability, conscious shopping, nostalgia, or a growing desire for individuality. Either way, vintage has moved far beyond music and pop culture and, over the past few years, has quietly embedded itself in fashion.

People browse vintage stores, hunt down old-but-still-cool branded pieces, collect them, and dig into the stories behind each find. And if you are already doing that — or simply curious to try your hand at this particular kind of fashion treasure hunt — we are here to help. So here we go: opening up the world of vintage clothing and accessories, and guiding you towards your first piece — or your 10th.

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Photo: Fellipe Ditadi

Vintage, second-hand, or just old? Knowing the difference

It often feels like we already know what vintage means. Say the word and most people picture a slightly scuffed Louis Vuitton bag that still looks good, or an extravagant Gucci jacket from another era. But does a vintage piece really need a famous label? And would a designer bag from 2015, bought second-hand, actually count as vintage?

Let’s break it down.

Point one: Vintage doesn’t have to be branded

While vintage is often associated with big names, a piece doesn’t need a famous label to qualify. What matters is how it reads today — the cut, the fabric, the overall presence. It should still feel cool and relevant. Style is subjective, of course, but that doesn’t make it any less real.

Point two: Age matters

Vintage usually refers to items that are around 20–25 years old. A few years either way is fine, but something from 2016 isn’t vintage — it is simply second-hand.

Point three: Condition counts

Signs of age are expected — even welcomed — but a true vintage piece should still be structurally sound. Time is the harshest test, and if a garment has passed it, that is usually a good sign.

One last thing: vintage is not the same as retro or reproduction. Retro pieces are made today but styled to look as though they belong to the past, while reproductions are modern remakes of older designs. Vintage, by contrast, is the real thing — original pieces made in their own time, using the materials, construction and design of that era.

I really enjoy buying vintage and archival pieces. It is a more sustainable, more affordable than buying new, and the quality can be exceptional.What I love most, though, is the sense of uniqueness. Many vintage pieces are truly one of a kind, which means you’re unlikely to see everyone else wearing the same thing. That individuality is what keeps drawing me back to vintage and thrifting.— Shivani

The key red flags in vintage items

Minor flaws — the little “signs of time” — are part of the deal with vintage. A missing button or a slightly temperamental zip rarely changes how a piece looks, and it шs usually easy (and inexpensive) to fix. But a few issues should be treated as proper deal-breakers.

One thing to keep in mind before we get into it: clothing and bags follow one set of rules, and shoes are a completely different universe. So let’s take it step by step.

Red flags for clothing and bags:

  • Overall fading. Whether it is from repeated washing or sun damage, fading is almost impossible to undo.
  • Brittle or breaking fabric. Most common in older cottons or silks, this is a definite red flag. If the fabric feels fragile or gives way easily, it simply won’t last.
  • Rips or tears in delicate fabrics. With clothing, it is almost always a no. With bags, it can sometimes be negotiable — especially if the damage is limited to the lining. That said, it is worth remembering that if something is already starting to come apart, it os unlikely to survive regular wear.
  • Unpleasant smells. Stubborn odours are notoriously hard to shift, and they will become a daily reminder that the piece wasn’t worth it.
  • Large or set-in stains. A small mark in a discreet spot might be worth the gamble. Big, obvious stains usually aren’t.

Note: Always check elastic wristbands and cuffs. If they have lost their stretch, a tailor can replace them — and it instantly makes the whole piece look sharper.

For bags, the most important thing to check is the condition of the leather — especially on the exterior and around the handles. Peeling or cracking is usually a clear deal-breaker.When it comes to the inside, I am much more relaxed. Vintage bags are pre-loved by definition, so a certain level of wear is expected. As long as it is not excessively dirty or ripped hardly, I don’t mind — sometimes it even adds character. Interiors can often be cleaned or refreshed, while damage to the outside is far more difficult to fix.— Shivani
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Photo: Ellie Cooper

Red flags for shoes:

The trickiest vintage items are shoes. Sizing is often unpredictable, as they tend to mould to the previous owner’s foot, and structural wear can be difficult to spot at first glance. Cracks in the leather, weakened stitching, or fragile materials don’t always reveal themselves immediately — often, you only discover the problem after you have already paid. Hygiene is another concern that shouldn’t be overlooked.

That said, there are a few life hacks that can help.

  • First: inspect the structure, not just the surface. Press the sole, flex the shoe, and look closely for any hidden weaknesses.
  • Second: prioritise deadstock items — pairs that were never worn. They are always the safest option.
  • Third: avoid buying vintage shoes online whenever possible. Trying them on in person makes all the difference.
Shoes are definitely the trickiest category when it comes to vintage. The very first thing I check now is the heel and the sole — especially the heel stopper. I once bought an incredible pair of vintage heels without looking closely enough, only to realise later that the heel tip was damaged and made a loud noise every time I walked.— Shivani

When does vintage become an investment?

Let’s be honest — most of us buy vintage to look good, not to build a portfolio. Still, if you ever find yourself walking into a vintage store thinking not only about that perfect jacket to wear with your everyday jeans, but also about the value it might quietly hold in your wardrobe, your thoughts actually also make sense.

The second-hand and resale market is growing fast. In 2024, it was already worth hundreds of billions globally, and forecasts suggest it could surpass 500 billion dollars by 2034, growing at over 10% a year. Another telling statistic: nearly 47% of shoppers now consider resale value before buying something new. So yes — vintage can be an investment, in the right circumstances. The question is: what is actually worth looking for?

  • Iconic designer bags. Classic, recognisable styles with limited availability tend to hold their value best. Condition is crucial here — intact leather, a solid structure and original hardware are non-negotiable.
  • Archival designer clothing. Early collections from now-iconic designers, or pieces that clearly capture a moment in fashion history, continue to attract serious collectors — regardless of age or how many hands they have passed through.
  • Jewellery and accessories (especially pieces in gold or silver). They are easier to store, simpler to maintain, and often carry value beyond fashion alone.
  • Deadstock or unworn vintage. Condition is everything. Pieces that are unworn or still have their original tags sit in a category of their own and are far more likely to be considered collectible.

Bonus: Vintage stores in Dubai and online

By now, we know what vintage is — and how to buy it well. The final (and arguably most important) question is: where? Think of this as a small post-New-Year bonus — a curated list of places worth bookmarking.

  • Retold. If you prefer discovering vintage offline, Retold is a brilliant place to start. With three locations across Dubai, it offers an easy, well-edited entry point into the vintage world. Expect everything from high-street to high-end, all carefully reworked and selected for quality and style — the kind of place where browsing feels reassuring rather than overwhelming
  • The Luxury Closet. The Al Barsha boutique is one of those places that rewards an unplanned visit — you go in “just to look” and end up staying far longer than expected. That said, it is equally suited to a slow, sofa-based scroll: the app is thoughtfully laid out and makes navigating designer dresses and bags feel intuitive rather than endless. With its strict approach to authentication and a strong leaning towards established luxury houses, it is a solid destination if you are hunting for a classic Louis Vuitton or another piece that holds its value beyond a single season.
  • Ragtag. When it comes to vintage, Japan really does set the benchmark, and Ragtag is one of the reasons why. It is an obvious stop if you are travelling to Japan — but just as importantly, it works perfectly from afar. Delivery to Dubai usually takes around three to four working days, which makes it dangerously easy to treat it like a local find. The selection is distinctive, properly authenticated, and often in near-pristine condition.
  • Vintimie. This was where vintage properly clicked for me — and thankfully, it was a good first experience. Vintimie focuses mainly on bags and works entirely online (unless you are in the UK), but it never feels remote. The listings are almost reassuringly detailed: close-ups of corners, linings, stitching, so you are never guessing what will arrive. New pieces drop every week, which makes it tempting to rush, but patience usually pays off. That said, if something really speaks to you, don’t overthink it — the best finds rarely hang around for long.