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FoodRestaurantsInterviewPeople

by Alexandra Mansilla

Changing the Mindset Around Filipino Cuisine. Meet Chef JP Anglo

25 May 2025

In 2013, he opened Sarsa Kitchen + Bar in Manila. Ten years later, in 2023, he brought his craft to Dubai with the launch of Kooya Filipino Eatery. His mission? To bring Filipino food to the global stage. To shift mindsets. To show that Filipino cuisine deserves just as much attention and respect as any other — that it is not something “less than,” but something to truly notice, explore, and celebrate.
Meet Chef JP Anglo — someone who genuinely cares about the food he makes. At the heart of his cooking is always the same thing: people. He cooks for people. And he wants everyone to feel welcome at his table.
You know what he said when I first reached out for this interview? He didn’t just agree — he immediately invited me to Kooya to try the food. That is what he is about: sharing, connecting, and putting Filipino cuisine where it belongs — out in the world.
Now — read JP’s story, find out where Kooya is moving from Dubai Marina, how the menu came together… and fair warning: it will definitely make you hungry!
— Hi JP! So Kooya is moving out of Dubai Marina? Wow — where to?
— I can’t say exactly where yet, but it will be on the opposite side of the Marina. What I can say is that it will be closer to the community. Hopefully, we will make it happen by the third quarter of the year.
It is definitely an evolution for us. I see it like this: you have your dream location, your dream setup. And this isn’t that — not yet. But it is the step I need to take to get there.
— And what is your dream location?
— The dream location would be somewhere where our community still feels at home and it is accessible to them. But at the same time, somewhere non-Filipinos can also easily go.
— How will Kooya change in the new location?
— I would say… It is like a grown-up version of Kooya. Still has that same playful, edgy energy… just a bit more polished. But not formal. Not fine dining.
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— We will definitely come back to Kooya, but let’s take a step back and introduce you properly, especially for those who aren’t familiar with your journey. You grew up in a foodie family, right?
— I was surrounded by food at my grandfather’s house, where I spent a lot of time. That is really where it all began. Not with cooking, but with a deep appreciation for food.
I was fascinated by how food looked, how it tasted — but more than anything, it was the smell. I remember catching the scent of something simmering and wondering what made it smell that good. Then you would see it — maybe roast pork, maybe chicken — and finally taste it. The joy it brought was unforgettable. I think I was hooked from that moment on.
Eventually, I took the so-called “normal” path — went to school, tried a few different things. But it wasn’t until I began cooking for others that I felt something shift. Feeding people gave me a kind of fulfilment I hadn’t experienced before.
And even now, at 46, that feeling hasn’t faded. Just a few days ago, I cooked for a friend in our new place. It was personal, almost emotional. I was excited. Nervous, even — he was only our second guest there. I have been cooking since my early twenties, but still I have that joy which drives me.
I often tell my wife, I need a real person to cook for. Whether we are filming content or just making dinner, I don’t enjoy cooking just for the camera. I want the food to go to someone. To her, to a friend, to someone who will eat it and feel something.
— In 2013, you opened SARSA in Manila. Then, in 2023, you launched Kooya in Dubai. What I am curious about is — what is harder: opening a Filipino restaurant in the Philippines, where it is part of the culture, or doing it in a completely different setting, like Dubai?
— Both were hard, just in different ways.
When I opened Sarsa, I was young and had little credibility. No one wanted to give me a space. It was tough because it was the first, and we grew fast. We eventually opened six branches, and that is when things really got challenging. The rapid growth started to dilute what mattered most: the food, the cooking. We moved into volume, and honestly, we weren’t good at that. I wasn’t built for that kind of scale.
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Sarsa Kitchen + Bar in Manila

Opening in Dubai came with its own set of challenges. We knew nothing at first — the permits, the rules, the way things work here, dealing with contractors, the language barrier. It felt like starting from scratch, like being that young version of myself all over again.
But over time, I have learned that I have a knack for adapting — for reading the energy of a place. I just go with the flow. So even when things got tough, I told myself: We are going to do this. No matter what.
I didn’t talk much about the opening at first. I didn’t want the noise — the opinions, the questions: Why there? Why Dubai? I knew who I was, and I knew exactly what I wanted to do. I just didn’t want anyone getting in my head or trying to sway me.
Now, people ask: Why Marina? During the pandemic, we found the space. It was empty, the lease was reasonable, the landlord was easy to talk to, and it was close to the Metro.
But more than that, we wanted to make a statement — especially to our own community: that we can succeed outside our comfort zone. We don’t have to stay where it is familiar. That way of thinking is what guided our decision.
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Kooya Filipino Eatery

— Back in 2022, before Kooya opened, you said in an interview: “It will still evolve. I want to put a skateboard rack, a surfboard, and of course, the artwork. It is no longer about the photo of the chef.” Could you comment on those words?
— Over the years, I have learned that while a restaurant is often led by a chef, it is really a collective effort. For a guest to have a full experience, it is not just about the food — it is about everything.
Yes, the chef or owners set the vision. But it only works if the whole team understands it and brings it to life.
We serve good food, sure. But we also create an experience — one that shifts with each guest. If they are celebrating, we celebrate with them. If they are on a date, we set that tone.
Everything contributes to that energy — the design, the vibe, the people.
— You also said Kooya should be a movement, not just one person or restaurant. Do you feel like you are getting there?
— I think so. There is still a long way to go — but the wheels are definitely turning.
I would like to believe we have inspired a few. And I don’t see them as competition — I see them as allies. The more of us there are, the stronger we become. Together, we raise the bar.
Right now, the playing field is still uneven. But you see new chefs coming up, starting small, and with time, they will find their voice and their place.
It feels like the start of a global movement. Filipino chefs — whether pioneers or OGs — all play a part in something bigger. We are each trying to move it forward.
Because for too long, we have been made to feel small. And that is exactly what I want to change. To uplift. To build confidence. To help shift the mindset.
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— Okay, let’s go to the kitchen. I am curious: Do you think being strict in the kitchen is important?
— Yes and no. You know, times have changed. The kitchen culture back then — during the Gordon Ramsay era, or even when I was just starting out — it was intense. That is why so many chefs burn out. The kitchen could be a toxic place. It was hot, people were yelling — it felt almost like the military. You couldn’t mess things up. It is food — it mattered.
That was the environment I was trained in. And because of that, I kind of inherited the same attitude. I became… well, kind of a jerk too, sometimes.
The downside of being that strict or harsh is that people end up resenting you. But the upside, when it is done right, is structure. Discipline. That is what I try to do now — bring the structure, but pair it with kindness and support.
I am definitely more nurturing now. Maybe it is because I have a son. Maybe I have just grown. But I still have to be firm.
Especially in the kitchen, chefs are alpha dogs. And I have to be more alpha than them. I have to lead. I have to show them that I am the one steering the ship. Like in nature, someone has to establish who is leading the pack.
So to answer your question: I am firm. Because I need to be. But I also make sure to complete that circle with care. With nurturing. That is what makes it sustainable.
— Now, the menu! You once said that at Kooya, you don’t want to just serve the obvious, expected Filipino dishes — there always has to be something special. And as I was going through the menu, one dish really stood out to me: Not Your Lola’s Pinakbet. Can you tell me more about it? Why that name?
— It is a small-town, simple dish. The kind you would find in local eateries. And no one has really done much with it! So what we did was — we infused it with more technique. We made a kind of shrimp bisque to enrich the sauce, and added crab fat for extra depth.
What we were trying to say with that dish is: this is something you can’t make at home. And that has always been our approach to the menu — to take something comforting, familiar… but do it in a way that people can’t easily replicate.
— And can you walk me through how you create the menu? Is it entirely your vision, or do you build it together with your team?
— Right now, I am getting the team more involved — because I want them to think and cook at the same level. That way, we can grow together.
I have always had a rule when it comes to the menu:
70% should be traditional — but done really, really well.
The other 30% can be progressive — something new, something playful.
Because when you walk into your favourite Italian, Japanese, or Chinese spot, there is always something familiar you look for. I want to offer that same sense of comfort.
But by their third visit, guests are ready to explore — to try something different. Maybe they bring a friend who has never had Filipino food before. That is why I make sure there’s always at least one dish that is “non-Filipino friendly.”
That is one of our biggest challenges: learning how to temper flavours for non-Filipinos without losing the soul of the dish. Without losing its identity.
— How would you describe Kooya’s flavour?
— Kooya flavour is a piece of home, and something to be proud of.
— Love it! Now, what would you recommend to someone who has never tried Filipino food before? Let’s say they walk into Kooya with no expectations, no reference point — just curious. What dishes should they try first?
— I would start with our beef empanadas. Because everyone knows what an empanada is. Ours is just the Filipino version, so it is the perfect intro dish.
We are also known for our pancit, or noodles. I would recommend they try pancit palabok — a noodle dish made with shrimp and crab fat as the base.
Then I would serve our grilled chicken inasal. Everyone loves grilled chicken, right? This is the Filipino take on it. Apparently, someone even said it ranks in the top five grilled chicken dishes in the world.
And finally, our caldereta. It is made with beef belly, braised in roasted tomatoes, and topped with cheese.
— And what about someone on the other end of the spectrum — someone who knows Filipino cuisine, who has tried a lot of it? What would you recommend they try?
— Maybe our okoy, a sweet potato fritter. There are different versions of it across the Philippines, but the way we do it has made it one of our best sellers.
Another one is our chicken sisig — our take on a classic. Traditionally, sisig is made with different cuts of pork, but we do ours with chicken.
Then, our lumpiang — or spring rolls — are actually made with chicken instead of the usual minced pork, and honestly, they turned out even better than the original.
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Okoy, chicken sisig, lumpiang

— I also have a not-so-pleasant question. When I was looking up Kooya on Google Maps, I saw that the majority of reviews are amazing. But I did notice a few comments about pricing. What would you say to those people who feel that Kooya is too expensive?
— The truth is, some people still look at Filipino food as something that doesn’t deserve to be paid for properly. They are only willing to spend 20, maybe 30 dirhams — because that is what they are used to seeing in places like Deira or Satwa. It is just a mindset.
And then here we are — doing things differently. No shortcuts. No instant sauces. Everything is made the right way, from scratch. Naturally, the price is a bit higher. But if you ask the same people how much they would pay for Japanese food, they will say 60 or 70 dirhams without thinking. So clearly, it is not about affordability — it is about what people choose to value.
And then, of course, there will always be people who look at the glass half empty. They will never get it. They will resist, they will bash, they will hate. But I don’t fight back with hate — I kill it with kindness. I turn it into an opportunity.
Like when we launched our ready-to-eat line, just 20 dirhams per meal, someone posted a negative review, saying it didn’t have enough meat. And sure, it is not a massive portion, but the flavours are good. There is no instant mix, no preservatives. It is real food. That line was my love letter to the Filipino community — proof that, yes, even for 20 dirhams, you can eat well.
My friend Michelle shared our ready-to-eat meal on social media. I sent her a quick voice note just to manage expectations: “It’s a 20-dirham meal — don’t expect full-on Kooya flavours.”
Then someone else saw the post and publicly tore it down. It wasn’t constructive — it was meant to embarrass. So I took a screenshot of her comment and my reply, and posted it.
My response was simple: “Well noted.” Then I added: “We worked hard on this. My team spent almost a year developing it. We are not perfect, but we are improving every day.”
That post went viral. And the next day, we sold more.
For me, it is not about fighting back — it is about standing your ground and turning criticism into fuel. We gave this everything we had. It’s our work, our effort, our heart. So don’t try to tear that down — because I will always stand up for my team.
At the end of the day, this isn’t just about food. It is about changing the mindset.
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— Okay, last question — and it is a personal one. Eight months ago, something amazing happened in your life: your son was born. How did it feel? Could you tell me about that day?
— Oh yes! It started like any regular Saturday. We were at a farmers’ market, and my wife said, “I’m going to get some coconut water.” But as she was getting ready, she suddenly paused and said, “Wait… I think today’s the day.” I asked, “Really? You’re sure?” She nodded: “Yes. Today’s the day.”
We packed up and drove straight to the hospital. Once we got there, we settled in and waited — seven, maybe eight hours. And while we were waiting, she looked at me and said, “After I give birth, I want a burger. The best burger in town.”
I called a good friend of mine who owns what I truly believe is the best burger joint in the city. And he was amazing. Even though he runs a big operation with multiple branches, he personally delivered the burgers to the hospital. That really meant a lot.
So, the burgers arrived first. I remember taking them, putting them aside somewhere in the room… and then, not long after, our son was born.
Of course, I cried. Just… wow. It was overwhelming. My wife needed to rest for a bit — naturally. And then the baby started crying too, hungry. So they gently woke her up.
A little while later, she came to, slowly gaining her strength. I said, “Hey, your burgers are here!”
She looked at me, exhausted, and said, “No way. I just want a gallon of water. I can’t eat that right now.”
So there I was — sitting in the hospital room, holding our newborn baby… eating two burgers by myself. And for a moment, it felt like I was the mom.
That is the story I always remember when I think about the day our son was born. It was chaotic, emotional, funny, and somehow perfect in its own way.
— And do you feel like fatherhood has changed you?
— It is really changing me. My staff says I am nicer now! Even the toughest lady in my kitchen — one of my strictest chefs — told me I have become more mellow. And coming from her, that is a big compliment.
I do feel it. I am more focused. I want to do really well, not just for myself anymore, but for my son.
I want to give him a good life. I want him to eat well, to travel for food, to meet kind, passionate people — like we do. He doesn’t have to be a chef, but I want him to experience this world we have built.
My purpose has grown. Having a child really gives you a whole new sense of purpose.
Before, I just wanted to feed Dubai. But after watching José Andrés on Netflix… wow. He is my new idol. In my own small way, I want to feed the world, too. Thank you for inspiring me.