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FashionDubaiInterviewShopping

by Barbara Yakimchuk

Made In Dubai, Carried Worldwide: Lilian Afshar On Her Brand

11 Jun 2025

Source: lafshar.com

We hear the term “local brand” here and there — but how often do we stop to think about the time, dedication, and creativity it really takes? This is your chance to do just that — with Lilian Afshar, founder of the Dubai-based bag and homeware brand L’AFSHAR.
What began as a graduation project in ready-to-wear (yes, nothing to do with bags at the time!) has grown into a globally recognised label. More than ten years later, her bags are not just loved across the Middle East — they have been worn by international icons like Celine Dion, Kylie Jenner, and Beyoncé. Wise design, good marketing, or luck? Probably a little of everything.
We round things off with a quick style check — Lilian reveals which bags have captured hearts, which deserve more love, and what her very first design looked like.
— Hello Lilian! Let’s start from the beginning — how did the idea for your brand begin?
— I was studying ready-to-wear in Dubai and had just completed my graduation collection — I had a full range of garments ready. It was just a few days before the presentation, but I felt like something was missing. The models looked like they needed something in their hands, almost like a jewel to complete the look. Since I was preparing for both a catwalk and a showcase, I had a spontaneous idea: to create a clutch or an object they could hold—something that would feel more like a fashion accessory than just a traditional bag.
So I went to an acrylic factory and asked if they could make a box clutch-type item. It was a real challenge — they had never done anything like this before. It was a fully industrial factory, and they didn’t really understand what I was trying to achieve. But they agreed to try. Eventually, we landed on one simple shape in two colors: red and transparent black.
When the models walked with the clutches during the show, everyone noticed. I had spent a year preparing my ready-to-wear collection, obsessing over every single design detail — but all the attention ended up going to the bags, which I had created at the very last moment.
People kept asking, “What are these? What are they holding?” I posted a few pictures on Instagram, and the response was overwhelming. Everyone wanted to buy them — but to me, they were just prototypes. I had not thought of them as actual products for sale.
Then a friend of mine, who had just launched a PR company, saw the bags and said, “You are really onto something. I think you should keep going with this.” That moment planted the seed. And that’s how the brand began — very organically.
The branding, the logo, even the name were all part of my final university project, so I didn’t have to start from scratch. That made everything feel very natural, like the brand was just waiting to happen.
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— Was it a challenging journey?
— You know, university graduation is one thing — but when you are actually creating a product for the real world, it is completely different. It took almost a year of research and development to get the product right.
The biggest challenge was working with an industrial factory that had never created a fashion item before. Their experience was in large-scale projects — like building parts of the Dubai Mall aquarium — not small, detailed luxury items.
Because of that, the learning curve was steep. I had to learn everything about their materials and production techniques, and then explain exactly what I needed. They had the technical expertise, but they did not understand the vision or the aesthetic requirements. I was constantly guiding them — telling them what to change, what was not working.
I wasn't willing to launch until I felt that the product met the highest standard I could achieve. That meant endless back and forth. It was a very difficult process. For a long time, it felt like “mission impossible” to get the level of detail and craftsmanship I was after. But eventually, after a lot of persistence, we got there. The quality and innovation finally aligned, and that is when I knew we could go forward with it as a brand.
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— You mentioned that production first started in a large industrial factory — which means you couldn't be there every day. How did you manage the production process in the early days?
— There was a lot of back and forth. I guided them remotely — constantly explaining what to do, what to change, and what wasn't working. Eventually, when I felt they were starting to understand — even just a little — that is when I felt ready to launch.
For me, once you launch, there is no going back. You can't undo it, so it has to be right. I truly believe in taking your time and not rushing the process.
Eventually I moved all production into my own studio. It would have been much easier to outsource — producing in China, for example — but for me, it was important that this remained a local brand with local production. I want to be involved in every detail.
— Would you consider L’AFSHAR a premium or a middle-market brand?
— It is definitely premium — not just because of the price, though we do have a range. But the quality of our materials and the complexity of our production process naturally place us in that segment. I have never wanted to compromise on quality just to meet a lower price point. We are creating unique, carefully crafted products, and I believe that speaks for itself.
— Tell me more about the production process — I know it takes around 6 to 7 hours to complete each piece.
— I always say we start off like an uncut gem — it s very much like jewelry making. There is so much precision, detail, and care involved. The process starts with a plain piece of acrylic. Any pattern you see on the bag is done using a CNC machine (is used to carve intricate patterns). The CNC bit has to run over each pattern 10 to 15 times on each side.
Then, by hand, they sand every single angle and edge. If they miss even one tiny area, it shows in the next stage, which is buffing — because buffing magnifies every flaw. So every little dot matters. After that, the bag is buffed by hand, polished by hand, and then hand-assembled.
It is an incredibly intensive process. This isn't something a machine alone can produce — it is mostly done by hand. In my opinion, it is a true labor of love.
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— You seem to have a zero-compromise approach to quality. What is your mindset when something does not meet your standards?
— My team knows: if something is not 100%, we don't move forward. We stop right there. It is just not worth wasting our time or resources on a product that does not reflect our standards. So, mostly because of that, less than 5% of pieces do not make it through, and even then, the issues are often so small that only I notice them. In those cases, I end up wearing the piece myself!
I have a very trained eye, and I catch tiny imperfections others might overlook. But I also hate waste. That is why I often repurpose leftover materials — I will use them for displays or other creative elements. For me, sustainability is not just a buzzword; it is how I work. Nothing goes to waste unless it absolutely has to.
— If we asked your team, what kind of leader would they say you are?
— I think they would say I am calm, trusting, and definitely not a micromanager. If someone is on my team, it means I believe they are capable and passionate about what they do. I don't want to hover—I want people to feel confident and proud of their work.
I really don't like that rigid, hierarchical “boss” mindset. I prefer to run things like a small family. That said, I also expect people to bring real capability and heart into what they do. If they don't, it becomes inefficient — they end up repeating tasks, and that wastes their time and the company’s energy. So I try to be supportive, approachable, but clear about expectations.
— Have you ever had to let go of someone who just did not fit that energy?
— Yes, absolutely. If someone is not aligned — if they don't bring care, focus, or heart to the work — it shows immediately. I can not build this brand on autopilot energy. I need people who are intentional and who take pride in what they are creating. If I feel like someone is just “working a job,” they usually don't last long.
— What does the team behind your brand look like today?
— In production, we are a team of seven. Upstairs in the showroom and office, there are two of us. Then, for marketing, sales, and other special projects, I work with multiple outsourced agencies. So when you bring it all together, it is quite a big ecosystem — even though the core team is still tight and hands-on.
— You have mentioned before that your mother played a significant role in supporting your brand. Could you tell me more about that?
— Yes, honestly — she is the other side of the L’AFSHAR brand that no one really sees, especially when it comes to the financial side. She has been my biggest cheerleader from day one.
My mother was the one who supported me both emotionally and financially. She was the very first investor in L’AFSHAR, and to this day, we still work together.
We have a really close relationship, and she is very much a part of the L’AFSHAR family.
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— What does your creative process look like now when you are designing a new bag?
— I am always inspired by vintage pieces — things like crystal perfume bottles, chandeliers, anything Murano glass. That is really the core of my design inspiration. I don't experiment much with shape because the sleek, structured look is such a signature for us. Plus, with the material I use, it is technically challenging to create very complex shapes, so I have to think inside the box — literally.
Each season, I ask myself: what can I change? Do I add crystals? That is something new we have started doing. I enjoy playing with color, especially bold, vibrant tones — but the pieces that consistently sell are always silver and clear. That can make it difficult to innovate while maintaining commercial success.
That limitation actually led me to start my homeware line. There were so many design ideas I could not execute through bags, but I realized I could bring them to life through objects like coasters and trays. So nothing goes to waste — I simply redirect the creativity.
Designing for home also brings a different kind of fulfillment. Unlike fashion, which is fast-paced with multiple seasons each year, the homeware space does not follow that cycle. There is less consumer pressure. I can treat it more like art, releasing pieces only when I feel ready. I do not like to force creativity — it always leads to weaker work.
— By the way, about your homeware brand — can you take us back to the beginning? I believe it started during COVID?
— Yes! I launched my own factory in 2019 — it is hard to believe it has already been six years. Opening the factory gave me so much more freedom: I could create samples more easily, dive deeper into research and development, and have full control over timelines. It really opened things up for me.
I had always dreamed of doing homeware, and once the factory was up and running, I felt like it was finally the right time. Then, six months later, COVID hit. I had been traveling a lot for work, and suddenly I was home — not doing much. It turned out to be the perfect moment to fully commit to this passion project.
I started with furniture and small objects, and we actually launched just a few months later. It happened quickly because we already had the ideas in place — it was just a matter of implementing and sampling. The lockdowns made it challenging to finalize everything, but we made it work. That was about four and a half years ago now.
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— I know you are a mother of two boys. How has your creative process evolved since becoming a mother?
— My brand — and the creativity behind it — has become even more important since I became a mother.
Finding that quiet mental space, where creativity lives, is much harder now. Without it, it is like a blocked pipe. But I have adapted. I am more organised, and I work faster now. I do most of my creative work in the studio.
Still, I miss those moments of daydreaming, when I could just sit with a coffee and let ideas flow. That space is essential for a designer. Right now, with two young boys, it is simply a new chapter in my life — and I am learning to create within it.
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— What is the most enjoyable part of your work?
— I love connecting with clients. It is something I don't get to do often enough, but whenever I have a pop-up or an event and get to meet people who wear and love my bags — it is such a rewarding feeling. They show up wearing the piece, tell me how much they love it, how many bags they own, or how they have gifted them to their sisters or cousins.
As a designer, the process is quite solitary. When you are creating, it is just you and the product — there is no human element involved at that point. So when I finally meet someone who has connected emotionally to something I made, it means so much.
— And what is the most unpleasant part?
— The part I find most challenging is managing people. As a business owner, you have to be deeply involved with your team, your office, and your employees, so they feel connected to your vision. If you are not present, they can become detached from the passion and purpose behind what you are doing.
So, while I prefer the creative side — designing, brainstorming, and meeting clients —management and operations are things I have to stay on top of.
— A lot of celebrities have been seen with your bags. Who do you feel had the biggest influence on your brand?
— We have had so many amazing names, but if I had to name one, Kylie Jenner definitely had a huge impact. What stood out is that she did not just wear one bag once — she kept wearing them, styling different designs with different outfits. I remember the first time she wore one, I started getting flooded with messages: “Did you see this?” “Is that your bag?”
— Did she tag you on social media?
— No, she didn't tag us, her tags probably come with a high price. But in the world today, it still works. People can identify items just from photos.
The big surprise was when she posted a YouTube video where she was choosing between two bags for an outfit, and both bags were from L’AFSHAR. Everyone kept asking me if I paid for that feature — and I genuinely didn't. It definitely influenced sales, especially since L’AFSHAR is also available to buy in London and the United States.
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Source: vogue.com; harpersbazaararabia.com; arabnews.com

— If you had to pick just one really big name, who would be the dream client — the one that would make you feel like your brand has truly peaked?
— I have been lucky enough to see my bags on many celebrities and A-listers. There was one week when Celine Dion, Kylie Jenner, and Anne Hathaway all wore my bags—that was a surreal moment. I thought, “Wow, they chose my designs out of all the options available to them.”
But honestly, even with all that, what still moves me the most is meeting the everyday customer. I did a pop-up in India once and met a woman in her late sixties — she was a lawyer and told me she always buys my bags. That was such a beautiful moment. Seeing people from all age ranges connect with the product really means everything to me.
If I had to pick a dream celebrity whose style I admire most, it would be Hailey Bieber. I love her effortless, natural look. She is very comfortable in her own skin, and her style is impeccable.
— I saw you did a collaboration with Samsung. Tell me about it!
— Yes, it turned out to be a really exciting and fun project, the timeline was incredibly tight. The truth is, inspiration and execution both take time. Still, the final product came out beautifully and I am very pleased.
— What would your dream collaboration be?
— Definitely Baccarat. I have always been obsessed with crystal and glass, and I feel like our aesthetics would complement each other so well. Their pieces are timeless, luxurious, and deeply admired. They are the kind of brand people dream about, and that dreamy quality is something I really connect with.
— Have you imagined what that could look like?
— Yes, absolutely. I can imagine a chandelier — I have always wanted to design one.
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— A little bag quiz at the end. What is the most popular bag from your collection?
— As I mentioned earlier, people tend to go for the silver and clear styles — probably because they are easier to style and they love the visual effect the bag creates. This one, for example, is quite popular.
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— Do you wear other bags, or only your own designs? — Honestly, I only wear my own. I truly love them. The variety in designs makes it easy to style them in different ways.
The funny thing is, I have never taken the opportunity to design a completely unique, one-of-a-kind piece just for myself. I really need to do that! And I will — both with bags and with my homeware brand. Especially now, as we are renovating our house, it is the perfect time to create custom furniture pieces that are just for me — completely unique
— Which of your bags do you not own yourself?
— Actually, quite a few! Since we launch a new collection every season, it would be difficult to keep one of everything.
— How does your first bag compare to the ones you design today?
— The difference is quite striking — both in design and in the complexity of craftsmanship. Today, we work with incredibly intricate patterns and details, where every millimeter matters.
The use of color has also evolved a lot. It has been over ten years now, and the journey has brought so much change and refinement. But the core of the brand has stayed the same. I do not follow fast trends in my designs — I want these pieces to be timeless, something you can still style and wear years from now.
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— What do you feel is the most underrated bag in your collection?
— I would say Jila in Bubblegum. I love it. It is so cute and looks like a big marshmallow to me! But I think some of our customers prefer something more versatile. I am still obsessed with the design, though, so we will definitely try it in other colourways. Another one is Mini Caro — it is a really adorable small bag — everyone who sees it says it is cute and wants to buy it, but when they are actually in the store, they often end up choosing something more practical. I think, for some, the size feels a bit too small.
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