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by Alexandra Mansilla

Who Is About To Own the Runway At Dubai Fashion Week

29 Aug 2025

Be Nina. Instagram: @howtobenina

Dubai Fashion Week returns on September 1–6 at Dubai Design District. The line-up leans heavily on Middle Eastern brands, with one day (September 3) given to La Moda Italiana, when Italian houses land in Dubai to show what they have got. More than 30 labels are on the schedule, from regional rising stars to seasoned houses. We have scanned the line-up — and selected the names that genuinely stand out and deserve a closer look.

THAT

Launched in 2021 by Majid Al Futtaim at Mall of the Emirates, THAT is part concept store, part lifestyle playground — fashion, beauty, art, and a mix of indie and luxe labels under one roof. At DFW, it brings its curated runway of established names and newcomers, all spliced into one sharp showcase.

LES BENJAMINS

Bünyamin Aydin’s Istanbul-born movement (2011). East meets West with colabs like Nike, Apple, Daniel Arsham, and more. Streetwear as cultural narrative — bold, smart, and region-defining. Known for their surprises — let’s see what they pull off at DFW.

Dima Ayad

Lebanese designer based in Dubai, Dima Ayad launched her label in 2010 to make eveningwear that actually works for women of all shapes and sizes. The brand is known for metallic fabrics, bold sequins, and silhouettes that feel glamorous but easy. At DFW Dima is set to show a collection that celebrates femininity with quiet confidence — flowing, flattering, and made to be worn, not just admired.

VALENTINA POLTRONIERI

Poltronieri is the kind of designer who sneaks geometry and wit into deeply personal femininity. Trained at Istituto Marangoni and Secoli, she cut her teeth backstage at Milan Fashion Week and learned the craft at Lanificio REDA and a family atelier in Vigevano. Her voice is refined tailoring with playful energy.

AVANT TOI

Cashmere as chaos — sculpted by Mirko (creative head), using airbrush and spray-paint techniques. Think action-painted knits where every ripped, dyed weave becomes a one-off. High-concept knitwear where rules don’t apply.

BE NINA

Founded by Italian designer Sabrina Bonatesta, Be Nina is dreamy, a little dark, and utterly artisanal: deadstock silks, Apulian roots, and a whimsy influenced by vintage toys and Victorian kidswear. She launched the brand in 2020 as an independent label merging Italian heritage, craftsmanship, and a dreamlike artistic vision.

The name comes from her childhood nickname “Binina,” reshaped into “Be Nina” as a nod to her fascination with toys, Victorian children’s clothing, and the textile traditions of Apulia. Debuted at London Graduate Fashion Week in 2019.

We are sure Be Nina will stand out at DFW — and we hope to see their signature kitty cat hats.

MRS KEEPA

Mariam Yeya and her husband Bassel Komaty (aka Keepa) launched this French‑Egyptian pret-à-porter in 2016. Vintage-inspired glamour meets non-conformist confidence — and sustainability isn’t an afterthought, but a design ethic (hello, multi-wear engineering). AW23’s “Life is a Game” even incorporated recycled denim.

TARA BABYLON

British-Iraqi designer, performance artist, CSM and Parsons MFA grad. Her gender-fluid RTW blends colour, craft, and theatricality — each piece eco-conscious and handmade. A runway by Tara is less about clothes and more about art, impressions and emotions.

FADTALENTS

Based in D3, FAD nurtures young creatives through hands-on fashion and design programmes, sending them onto runways in London, Milan, and Dubai. And “emerging” often means “free to experiment” — so expect sharp prototypes: metallic jackets, oversized sunglasses, asymmetric cuts, and a palette ranging from electric red to deep blue.

WEINSANTO

Victor Weinsanto launched his Paris label in 2020, and it was dramatic from the start. Grotesque silhouettes, campy quirks, and haute-couture polish quickly caught the eye of Adrian Joffe (Comme des Garçons), who pulled the brand into Dover Street Market. Since then, Weinsanto’s been worn by Beyoncé, Madonna, and even popped up in Emily in Paris. Today you’ll spot his pieces at Selfridges, DSM, and in the pages of Vogue.