Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with photographer Emily Garthwaite, whose work moves between cultural memory and environmental storytelling — always going a little deeper than what you see at first glance. Since 2017, Iraq has been at the heart of her practice, shaping both her perspective and the stories she chooses to tell.

During our conversation (which we will be publishing soon — stay tuned), I found myself not only drawn to her work and projects, but to the country that continues to inspire them. A place of sacred sites, everyday stories, and quiet moments hidden in the rhythm of its streets.

So, as a bit of a warm-up to the full interview we are taking a closer look at Iraq. Not the version you might expect, but one that might just earn a place on your travel list.

Why save the best for last? It makes no sense. So we are starting with the essentials — a list of must-visit places in Iraq, straight from Emily Garthwaite.

A quick note: these aren’t places you can tick off within a single city. Emily’s journey through Iraq is wide and layered — so don’t expect a neat little list of streets all in one place.

The Lalish shrine is the spiritual heart of the Yazidi community — a small, ancient religious group that doesn’t quite fit into familiar categories. It is neither Christian nor Muslim, yet it quietly echoes elements of older Middle Eastern belief systems, all while remaining entirely its own.

At its core, Yazidism centres around one God and seven divine beings. But beyond that, there is something more intuitive — a deep connection to nature, sacred places, and quiet rituals that feel rooted in the region’s oldest traditions.

Another essential stop — and not far from Lalish — Mosul is often called the historic heart of Iraq. But it isn't about ticking off landmarks here — it is about the city itself.

At its centre is the Old City (Al-Madina Al-Qadima), a tight maze of narrow streets and traditional houses. It has been through a lot, and while parts of it are still being restored, the atmosphere is very much alive. But for Emily, the real pull isn’t just the architecture — it is the way the city lives alongside the Tigris.

What makes it special is that it isn't a typical tourist spot — not even really a go-to for locals. Safina village is all about where it sits: a liminal, slightly surreal stretch of land that isn't the easiest to reach, which is exactly why the wildlife has claimed it.

Baghdad is the capital, and this is where the city feels most alive. Head straight to Al-Mutanabbi Street — the heart of the city’s literary scene — then drift into Shabandar Café for a game of dominoes and a glass of sharp, bitter lemon tea.

Basra is one of Iraq’s key cities — a place where trade, culture, and everyday life all meet. It is an oil hub, a port city, and long has been a crossroads for people, goods, and ideas.

If you are into archaeology and anything from the past, this is a must — especially as it sits just next to Basra. Ur, which flourished around 2500 BCE in Mesopotamia (often called the “cradle of civilisation”), offers a rare glimpse into how one of the world’s first cities lived — from its streets and homes to its temples and everyday life.

The Zagros Mountains are proof that Iraq is far from just desert — here you will find lush, green landscapes, dramatic valleys, and rugged peaks. The trail passes through remote villages and wild terrain, offering a very different side of the country. What is even more interesting is that Emily was part of creating the route itself, walking different paths on foot to help shape a single trail that is both connected and accessible, even for beginner hikers.

— What is one common misunderstanding people have about Iraq?

— One of the biggest misconceptions is that Iraq is just desert.

Yes, there are deserts — especially towards Syria, Saudi Arabia, and Iran — but the country is really defined by its rivers. Where there is water, there is life. You will find marshlands, fertile plains, lakes, and even forested areas in Kurdistan. There are mountains, snowfall — even skiing. It is a landscape far more diverse than people expect.

— Is Iraq only Muslim?

— Not at all. It is incredibly diverse — home to Christians, Yazidis, Mandaeans, and historically Jewish communities, among others. Iraq has a rich mix of ethnic and religious identities that have coexisted for centuries, which makes it far more layered — culturally and socially — than the one-dimensional image many people have.

— For anyone travelling to Iraq, what is one precaution you would give?

— Be mindful of what — and who — you photograph, especially when it involves people.

In my own work, for example, there is a clear absence: I don’t photograph girls roughly between the ages of 13 and 18, particularly from more rural or traditional communities. That is a very intentional decision. Once an image is online, the consequences can be serious — in some cases, it can bring shame to a family, and in extreme situations, it can even put someone at risk.

But it isn't just about age — it is about consent. And that isn't always just a personal preference; in some cases, it can be a matter of safety. Iraq is still a relatively conservative country, so something that might feel completely normal to share online can be perceived very differently within a local context.

For me, consent isn’t just a formality — at its most serious, it can be a matter of safety.