The end of 2024 sparked a wave of speculation. Chanel was reportedly on the verge of naming its new creative director when Maison Margiela announced John Galliano’s departure, Louise Trotter bid farewell to Carven, and Matthieu Blazy exited Bottega Veneta. The list of candidates lining up to take the helm at Chanel grew, but the suspense didn’t last long: Blazy moved to Chanel, while Trotter stepped in at Bottega Veneta. A perfect match for both brands, though the futures of Maison Margiela and Carven remain up in the air. But let us be honest, it is Blazy at Chanel that has got everyone buzzing. So, why all the excitement? Let us dive in.
Chanel without Karl
After Karl Lagerfeld passed away in 2019, Virginie Viard, his right hand for over 30 years, stepped in as creative director. Reactions to her appointment and the following five years were mixed.
Lagerfeld was a true visionary who pushed boundaries, while Viard, by contrast, focused on stability rather than redefining Chanel’s codes. On one hand, she preserved Lagerfeld’s legacy, ensuring a smooth transition, while on the other, her own vision often opposed his. For instance, she scaled back on runway shows, bringing an end to the era of iconic theatrical sets, while critics noted that her designs lacked the excitement and edge that Lagerfeld had brought. Still, this approach seemed to work: sales grew, though much of the growth was attributed to price increases rather than volume.
Nevertheless, when Viard stepped down, many breathed a sigh of relief, eagerly anticipating the arrival of fresh energy.
Generational change
Chanel craved that youthful energy. The hunt for fresh blood to lead the brand into its next chapter was intense, still, Blazy emerged as a perfect fit.
Practically speaking, he is young, cool, and efficient. Before bringing his creative energy and fresh perspective to Bottega Veneta, Blazy proved himself at Maison Margiela, Celine, and Calvin Klein, constantly delivering non-trivial and commercially successful collections merging exquisite craftsmanship with a mix of references, all while paying incredible attention to detail. But, apparently, that is not exactly why Chanel chose him.
Chanel values the brand over any individual personality. They sought someone who could bring the brand forward without compromising its core values, and Blazy, unlike some designers bringing the same things from one brand to another, is more than capable of doing that — bringing the modernity while preserving the heritage.
What is next?
Officially Blazy will join Chanel team in April, taking over the couture and ready-to-wear collections as well as accessory lines, with his first collection set to be presented in October. According to Pavlovski, this collaboration is expected to be a long-term one, with hopes that Blazy will remain for at least 10 or 15 years. We will see!
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