Pasha de Cartier: the Mystery Behind the Iconic Design

by Sofia Brontvein

Pasha de Cartier: The Mystery Behind the Iconic Design

5 Feb 2024

In the 1930s, Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, approached Louis Cartier with a distinctive request — to fashion a truly unique timepiece. How does this narrative intertwine with the ingenuity of Gerald Genta?

Gerald Genta is often celebrated for his remarkable yet slightly eccentric approach to watch design. Ironically, Genta harboured a dislike for watches and the very concept of time itself. "I hate watches! For me, a watch is the complete opposite of freedom. I am an artist; I hate being limited by time. It annoys me," Gerald Genta once declared. Nevertheless, his watch designs earned him global renown.

There are notable tales about Genta. For instance, in 1972, he conceptualised the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak design overnight. Summoned by Georges Golay at 4 pm with an urgent need for a sporty innovation, Genta brewed a cup of coffee, toiled through the night, and presented Golay with a ready-made Royal Oak design the following morning. And Audemars Piguet fans have been queuing up for Royal Oaks ever since.

In 1976, it took Genta merely five minutes to conceive the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus. During the Basel watch fair, a chance encounter with Patek Philippe representatives dining in a cafeteria sparked inspiration. Genta requested a pen from a waiter and swiftly sketched the Patek Philippe Nautilus on a napkin, attributing his inspiration to a ship's porthole. One question remains: where did Genta spot a porthole in the cafeteria, and what was Patek Philippe's involvement in this impromptu creation? Despite the questions, this model has now become a staple in any respectable watch collection.

Source: Gerald Genta Heritage

Genta is hailed as the most renowned designer of the 20th-century (XX-century) watch industry. He collaborated with Universal Genève, Bulgari, IWC, and Van Cleef & Arpels, designing sports watches and even establishing his own brand — Gérald Genta — in 1969. Few, however, are aware of his involvement in reimagining a model for Cartier. Let's delve into this watch in chronological order.

Numerous legends surround the creation of the Pasha de Cartier, yet none have been substantiated. The most common story is intertwined with Morocco. It is believed that around 1931, The Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, tasked Louis Cartier with crafting a one-of-a-kind watch. The Pasha sought a timepiece suitable for important meetings, swimming (part of his daily regimen), and visiting a hammam — a piece he'd never need to remove. This posed a real challenge for the industry at that time.

Louis Cartier had to fashion an elegant gold watch with proper water resistance for pool activities, an uncommon feat in those years. Hence, Cartier devised a design featuring a crown cover and a metal grille (referred to by others as a grid). While Cartier never confirmed nor refuted that the Pasha de Cartier was made for Thami El Glaoui, they named the model after him, citing tribute to the Pasha of Marrakesh.

Source: Gerald Genta Heritage

The design of the Pasha de Cartier remained unchanged until 1985, when Cartier's CEO, Alain-Dominique Perrin, felt the line needed an update. The global market exhibited substantial demand for masculine yet elegant, waterproof luxury watches, presenting Pasha de Cartier as the brand's opportunity to embrace this trend.

Alain-Dominique Perrin knew he had better call Saul or, in this case, Gerald Genta, the only guy in the industry who could renew the classic timepiece. Genta, tasked with preserving the inherent elegance of Pasha de Cartier while making it contemporary, eliminated the grille but enhanced the crown and its protective mechanism. He retained the broad bezel and Vendôme lugs, introducing the screw-down crown cap with a cabochon and delicate retaining chain, later becoming the most iconic elements of Pasha de Cartier.

Since 1985, this model has remained one of Cartier's best-selling watches, notably differentiating itself by predominantly featuring Arabic numerals on the dial, contrary to the Roman numerals often associated with Cartier. After all, being a diver's watch, the readability of time is crucial.

Source: Gerald Genta Heritage

Over time, the Pasha de Cartier appeared in gold, steel, and platinum cases, with leather straps or metal bracelets, incorporating functions like chronographs, perpetual calendars, GMT, moon phase indications, and embellishments with diamonds and enamel miniatures. Nevertheless, the most iconic design remains the simple steel watch, boasting impeccable water resistance, a collaboration between Louis Cartier and Gerald Genta. Provenance is one of the most important features when it comes to watches. And Pasha de Cartier will always allow you to enlighten your friends about the greatest minds in the industry.

The lineage of a timepiece is a significant aspect when it comes to watches, and the Pasha de Cartier will always serve as a gateway to discussing the greatest minds in the industry.

by Sofia Brontvein