Some people swear by them. Others say they look like hooves. But whether it is a love-it-or-hate-it relationship, one thing is for sure: tabi shoes leave no one indifferent. Once a traditional Japanese footwear, they have become a cult fashion item — and they are definitely here to stay. But what is behind all the hype? Let’s break it down.
A (very) brief history
The story goes all the way back to 15th-century Japan, where tabi were originally soft, split-toe socks worn with traditional thonged sandals like zori or geta. Over time, tabi evolved into jika-tabi, a sturdier, rubber-soled version often worn by workers, farmers, and runners for practical purposes.
Fast forward a few centuries, and this humble, functional design caught the attention of designers in the West. The rest, as they say, is history — or in this case, high fashion. But how did it happen?
Avant-garde fashion
These days, tabi shoes are practically synonymous with Martin Margiela. The designer showcased the reimagined traditional silhouette as a split-toe boot for his debut 1989 collection — and just like that, a fashion icon was born.
Margiela’s version turned the tabi into a symbol of his offbeat, conceptual design philosophy. Since then, they have become a regular on the runway and in street style snaps, worn by celebs, editors, and influencers who know their Yohji from their Y/Project.
A bold statement
Let’s be honest: tabi shoes are a bit weird. But in fashion, weird often equals cool. They stand out. They spark conversation. They say you know the codes — or at least, you know how to fake it with conviction. They are not just shoes, they are a statement.
The growing trend
Maison Margiela may have kick-started the fashion revival, but they are no longer the only ones riding the split-toe wave — other brands have jumped on board too. From smaller niche labels to sportswear giant Nike, which recently relaunched its Air Rift (originally introduced in 1996), the silhouette is now expanding far beyond the luxury segment and making its way into mainstream wardrobes. And yes, it ties in neatly with current footwear trends. Tabi ballerinas, mules, sneakers — even pumps? There is a split toe for every occasion.
Collabs that keep the hype alive
Maison Margiela has also done a solid job of keeping the hype alive through unexpected collaborations. From Reebok to Christian Louboutin, the brand’s collabs push the fashion boundaries and introduce tabi shoes to the new audiences.
Surprising comfort
They might look a bit strange, but many fans swear by the comfort. The split-toe design allows for better foot movement, and some say it even improves posture. Plus, with many modern versions featuring sneaker-like soles, they are actually walkable — which, let’s be real, is a rare thing in fashion.
The quiet luxury crowd secretly loves them
They may not scream “stealth wealth” at first glance, but a sleek pair of black leather tabi boots ticks all the right boxes: minimalist, niche, and instantly recognisable (to the right crowd). They are like the secret handshake of fashion insiders — subtle, but deeply coded.
So, are tabi shoes just a passing trend or a modern icon in the making? Judging by their staying power, expanding fanbase, and presence in both high fashion and high street, the answer leans heavily toward the latter. Love them or loathe them, there is no denying it: the split-toe revolution is alive and kicking.