Upcycling Trend: Where Did It Come From?

by Sophie She

Upcycling Trend: Where Did It Come From?

1 Jul 2024

Photo: Michael Tucker

These days, fashion is evolving quickly — for example, first, Crocs were a curse, now they are cool. Trends are coming and going. Among these many streams, one trend that has proven to be revolutionary and meaningful is upcycling.

In a world increasingly aware of its environmental footprint, upcycling offers a creative and sustainable solution to the challenges of textile waste and overconsumption.

Let’s explore how this has happened and if the popularity is worth it.

What is upcycling?

In strict terms, upcycling is the process of transforming waste materials or unwanted products into new items of higher quality or value. Put in the context of fashion, upcycling involves taking discarded, old or unused clothing and textiles and creatively reworking them into unique, stylish garments or accessories.

Upcycling transforms waste materials into new, higher-value (greater environmental value) items without breaking them down, unlike recycling, which processes materials into raw forms to create new products from scratch, often involving significant energy and resource use.

To put it simply — a bag made of plastic scraps and waste is a recycled bag. But a shirt that is made from jeans (so jeans were torn apart and then sewed together to be a shirt) — that is upcycling. Judging from the clothes markets, upcycling jerseys into corsets is a pretty big thing these days.

Trend’s story, eh!

The term:

One of the earliest mentions of "upcycling" was by Reiner Pilz in 1994 in an interview by Thornton Kay of Salvo. He used the term to describe repurposing old products into new, higher-value items.

"Recycling, I call it down-cycling. They smash bricks, they smash everything. What we need is up-cycling, where old products are given more value, not less," said Reiner Pilz.

The bio:

Shortly, upcycling was there many years ago, helping people to approach their appearances creatively in times, when everything was scarce.

1940s

During World War II, the UK embraced upcycling in response to clothing rationing starting June 1, 1941. With supplies diverted to produce war uniforms, the "Make Do and Mend" campaign encouraged citizens to extend clothing lifespan through repairs and creative reuse of household textiles like curtains and tablecloths. Women ingeniously repurposed blackout fabric and parachute silk for daily wear and special occasions, echoing Scarlett O'Hara's resourcefulness in "Gone with the Wind," where she famously fashioned an elegant dress from green velvet curtains.

"Gone with the Wind" (1939)

1980s–1990s

Upcycling resurged in the late 1980s and early 1990s amid a significant UK recession. Embracing used clothes, teenagers personalised hand-me-downs to express identity. Dapper Dan of Harlem notably repurposed designer garments, innovating fits and styles while incorporating fake logos, becoming iconic in the hip-hop fashion scene.

2000s+ to this day of your beautiful life [read "beautiful" like [biayoutiful]

In the 21st century, upcycling has become increasingly viewed as an ethical choice. Concerns about the environmental damage caused by fast fashion, including the massive consumption of water in cotton production and the polluting effects of denim manufacturing, have driven consumers toward more sustainable fashion. Upcycling supports a circular economy by keeping products in use longer, minimising waste, and maximising resource efficiency. It offers a moral choice for those who can afford unique, sustainable garments and an economic option for those repurposing available resources.

Sustainability

Continuing the conscious-fashion stream of thought, upcycling seems to be a crucial aspect of staying green in several ways:

— Waste Reduction: Upcycling significantly reduces the amount of textile waste that ends up in landfills by reusing materials. The fashion industry is a major contributor to waste, with millions of tons of clothing discarded each year.

— Resource Conservation: Upcycling minimises the need for new raw materials, thereby conserving resources like water, energy, and raw fibres required for producing new textiles.

— Lower Carbon Footprint: The production of new textiles, especially synthetic fibres, involves substantial carbon emissions. Upcycling helps reduce the carbon footprint associated with clothing production. (The fashion industry produces more carbon dioxide than France, Germany and the UK combined)

— Promoting Circular Economy: Upcycling supports a circular economy model where products are kept in use for as long as possible, thus minimising waste and maximising resource efficiency.

But ok, why is this important?

Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world, and textile waste is a significant part of this problem. The rise of fast fashion has exacerbated the issue, with a high turnover of cheap, low-quality garments leading to an increase in discarded clothing. Upcycling addresses this problem by turning waste into valuable products, thus reducing the overall textile waste.

Moreover, upcycling encourages a shift in consumer mindset from disposable fashion to valuing durability and creativity. This shift can lead to more sustainable consumption patterns and a reduction in the demand for fast fashion.

Popularity around the world

Upcycling has gained popularity globally, driven by both grassroots movements and high-end fashion designers. In countries like the United States, the United Kingdom, and Japan, upcycled fashion has become a significant trend. Notable designers and brands, such as Patagonia, Stella McCartney, and Eileen Fisher, have incorporated upcycling into their collections, bringing the practice into the mainstream fashion industry.

Additionally, social media platforms and online marketplaces like Etsy and Depop have played a significant role in popularising upcycled fashion. These platforms provide a space for independent designers and small businesses to showcase their upcycled creations, reaching a broader audience.

Instagram: @stellamccartney

Upcycling in the UAE

The UAE, like other developed and conscious countries that look into the future, has a special place for initiatives like upcycling. DFW (Dubai Fashion Week) features sustainable designers, and the green education strategy launched by the state is just a few examples.

You may find some artefacts of upcycling in the following places:

— EFAAR (@efaarvintage) — online clothing store

— Think Upcycle (@thinkupcycle.ae). Pre-loved furniture lives here

— Upcycle Let's Transform (@upcycleletstransform), a space for green living things like lunch boxes, nut milk bags and else

— Retold (@shopretold). Here you can find some pre-loved clothes

Getting started with your eco-fashion career

If, after this ode to creative sustainability, you will be interested in becoming a part of this stream — Dubai Flea Market can definitely be of use, and to get ahead of your sewing skills — visit ThreadWerk for a sewing workshop. Besides, here you can find our review on vintage shops and a little bit about sustainable fashion in the UAE here.

by Sophie She