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Photo: Junko Nakase
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Ever bought clothes or accessories from a big brand, only to wonder later why they fell apart so fast despite the heavy price tag? The unfortunate reality is that even the fanciest fashion houses sometimes sacrifice durability for aesthetics — some pieces just aren't built for real life. As someone obsessed with fashion but also serious about living sustainably, I want the things I buy to last, and when investing in my wardrobe, I expect it to pay off for years, not months. So, over time, I’ve come up with a few golden rules to make sure I am getting the quality. Spoiler: A great piece doesn’t always have to drain your bank account.
Know your enemies
The first thing I do after spotting an item I like is to check the fabric composition. If I see any of my personal red flags, I am out faster than you can say “polyester blend”.
I am all in for natural materials like silk, linen, wool, cashmere, cotton and leather or suede.
Faux leather? No, thanks. It is neither durable nor recyclable. Acrylic, polyester and synthetic fibres in general? I will pass as it is like wearing a plastic bag: no breathability, skin irritations, static cling and bad for the environment.
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That said, I am not a total fabric snob and will make an exception for artificial materials if they serve a purpose. Are sportswear, sneakers, and outerwear made from technical textiles? Sure, especially if they are moisture-wicking and water-repellent. Plus, normally, you do not wear those things all day anyway.
I am also cool with nylon for backpacks, handbags, and small accessories, and I am willing to make peace with materials like viscose since they are derived from natural sources.
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Don’t settle for less
Picking the “right” fabric is one thing, but quality is a whole different issue.
You might snag the cosiest, fluffiest cashmere sweater, but be prepared to give it a daily shave — it is probably made from shorter, lower-grade fibres that pill like crazy. Not feeling up for this maintenance? Then opt for smoother cashmere with longer threads — it is way less likely to fuzz up.
When it comes to knits, sometimes it is also smart to embrace a little blend. A touch of elastane or other synthetic fibres can actually give them extra strength. Less stretching out, more lasting power!
While checking the fabric, don’t forget about weight. If the piece feels too light and thin, it will likely lose shape or tear easily. Also, do a stretch test: give the fabric a gentle pull to make sure it bounces back into place. Same goes for denim: thicker non-stretchy jeans tend to last longer and hold the shape better.
As for leather, I generally prefer the ones with a minimal finish that unveils the natural grain. If the surface looks too perfect and feels stiff, it probably has a heavy coating that makes it look like plastic, hiding the natural texture that ages beautifully.
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Keep everything in its place
Imagine washing your new dress and discovering that not only has the colour faded, but it has also dyed everything else in the laundry. Total disaster, right? To avoid this drama, give your potential wardrobe resident a quick rub with a damp cloth. If the colour transfers, just leave that dead duck behind.
The devil is in the details
Don’t ignore the little things like stitches, lining, zippers, clasps, buttons, and hardware. Threads should be sturdy, fastenings secure, lining well-attached, and zippers smooth. And for hardware — I mean, it is called “hard” for a reason, so make sure it is solid and not flimsy.
Think in advance
These days, you can find fashion pieces with the wildest designs and the most ingenious material combinations, but the real question is: How do you care for them? What is your plan for sequins, feathers, and tops with leather bits? I am not joking. Sometimes, care labels will tell you not to wash or dry-clean, leaving you wondering what you are supposed to do then. Think critically: Are you willing to deal with the fuss?
Also, let’s not forget about wearability. Realistically, how many steps can you take in those trendy strappy sandals before they destroy your feet? Comfort should always be top of mind, so make sure your wardrobe lives up to your expectations!
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