Cape Town and I have history. Round one didn't go well — it felt unsafe, a little underwhelming, and honestly not worth the flight. Round two? A complete glow-up. Turns out the city didn't need to change — I just needed to explore it properly. And once I did, I was gone. Fully, embarrassingly in love.

So, here comes Part 1 of my South Africa guide — for people who like their holidays with a bit of movement. There are no five-hour hikes before breakfast, no days that start with a run and end with a spin class, and definitely no menus where every dish begins with "high protein". Just Cape Town at its most active, balanced and genuinely fun.

And if you enjoy this one, Part 2 will be along soon — in the complete opposite mood, with slow mornings, long lunches and absolutely no agenda.

As mentioned, this wasn't my first Cape Town rodeo — so this time, a few lessons from the previous trip were finally taken seriously, while a few habits simply stuck. All I will say is: they make a proper difference, whether you are the sporty type or firmly team sun-lounger.

Remember the first trip wasn't exactly a triumph? We caught the stomach bug — brutal to shake off and even worse to travel with, to the point where leaving the apartment felt like an achievement. As it turned out, we weren't just unlucky: it is something of a local classic among tourists, especially during the hotter months, though never really out of season. Locals, as our South African friend cheerfully put it, seem to be born with some kind of immunity. Tourists, meanwhile, simply play roulette with it. So wash your hands with soap whenever you can, sanitise more than feels necessary, and you will likely be fine. We got through all five bottles of sanitiser we packed — and didn't regret a single one.

I know it isn't always your choice, but if you have even the slightest chance to rent a car, take it. For starters, it isn't as expensive as you might think: a decent rental costs around 1,000 AED for ten days, plus the deposit. More importantly, Cape Town is a city built for driving. Its neighbourhoods are spread out, making it easy to hop from one to the next. Finally, safety isn't always Cape Town's strongest suit, and having your own wheels makes life much easier, especially if you plan to be out after sunset. If driving isn't an option, stick to Uber — it is reliable and widely used.

Keep a few small notes on you. We learned this the hard way after trying to pay for city-centre parking without any cash and ending up paying far more than we should have. Whether it was a misunderstanding or not, we will never know. Either way, a bit of cash can save you both money and the need to negotiate on the street — something that is generally best avoided.

Cape Town runs on the opposite season to most of us — summer at home means winter there. So, right up until early November, it is still properly chilly. Plus, the city's coastline, mountains and constantly changing weather patterns mean the forecast can shift faster than you can open Google Maps.

Don't overestimate what a light jacket can do. Bring proper jumpers, hoodies and, for the colder stretches, maybe even thermals. And remember: it is cold indoors too. Warm pyjamas, socks and slippers will quickly become your best friends.

Starting with hikes, I want to say: it is your best bet when you are feeling sporty-adjacent but not properly sporty. One important heads-up first: although the trails around Cape Town are well designed, there are no water spots anywhere along them — so don't forget to pack your own.

Also worth flagging: quite a few folks like doing the trails (Lion's Head and Table Mountain especially) right before sunrise or after sunset for the views — but we have heard a fair few stories about safety issues (muggings, mostly) at those hours. So either go in a decent-sized group, or just stick to daylight hours.

Kloof Corner

Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Length: 3 kilometres

If you have only got time for one hike in South Africa, make it this one. It takes around 1.5 hours, although you can easily shorten or extend it, as one trail rather nicely flows into the next. A fun fact: lots of people think they have reached the end when they arrive at what looks like the summit, but that is actually only about 30% of the route, with another 30 minutes still to go. It is a great choice if you are after a proper leg-burner rather than just a gentle stroll, with gorgeous views over the city and Lion's Head.

Lion's Head

Difficulty: moderate
Length: 5.5 kilometres

One of Cape Town's most popular hikes, this one takes around 1.5–2 hours and rewards you with uninterrupted 360° views over the city, the ocean and the surrounding mountains. The climb is steady and can feel a little demanding in places, but it is nothing too dramatic if you allow yourself a few extra breathers along the way — and, obviously, stop for plenty of photos at the top.

Platteklip Gorge

Difficulty: hard
Length: 6 kilometres

For anyone missing the gym and that coach who yells at you to push harder, this is your alternative. Properly steep, it feels like climbing stairs for 1.5–3 hours (the duration really depends on your fitness), with around 750 metres of elevation gain. It isn't the most scenic route up Table Mountain, but people love it for other reasons — chiefly because it delivers one of the best workouts in the city and leaves you feeling like you have genuinely earned the view.

Stellenbosch Trails

Difficulty: easy to moderate
Length: 1–10 kilometres

My own personal favourite — although, rather controversially, I was the only one in our couple who thought so. Perhaps I was simply craving a proper escape into nature by that point.

The beauty of Stellenbosch is that there isn't one single route to follow: you can mix and match trails, add elevation if you are feeling energetic, or keep things gentle if your legs have other ideas. More than anything, though, it was the fresh air that won me over. I had forgotten just how good it feels to spend a couple of hours in the proper forest.

Cape Point Lighthouse Trail

Difficulty: moderate
Length: 5–6 kilometres

Cape Point is an absolute must-visit however you choose to explore it. But if your plan is more than just get there, look around and leave, make time for this walk. The trail starts at the Cape Point main car park and loops back towards the funicular, where you can either walk the final stretch up to the lighthouse or let the funicular do the work. Along the way, the path drops down towards a wild, almost deserted beach, with wildlife occasionally wandering right across the trail. Finish at the lighthouse for sweeping Atlantic views, although, truth be told, the scenery is spectacular from start to finish.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden

Difficulty: easy
Length: up to you

Not technically a hike, but a huge, glorious area packed with rare tree species, sprawling lawns and unique flowers. You will naturally cover some elevation walking round, but nothing dramatic — more of a green, leafy wander than a workout. Usually recommended to set aside at least 2 hours, though honestly that wasn't nearly enough for us (my husband's a bit of a biology nerd, so he insisted on reading every single plaque). Feels like you would never manage to see it all.

Confession time: I know precisely nothing about cycling. My one and only 70-kilometre ride in life happened to coincide with a rather cheeky snack break and a promise I apparently couldn't take back once it left my mouth. But! I do have a husband, and while he is no pro either, he knows his stuff round here and can point you in the right direction.

MTO Trails

If there is one place that deserves to be called a cyclist's playground, it is MTO Trails. The network is vast, with routes for every level — from easy gravel tracks for beginners to technical singletrack, jumps and fast descents for experienced mountain bikers.

What makes it stand out is the variety: some trails stay low in the valley with little elevation, others climb into the mountains before rewarding you with long, flowing descents.

The trails suit almost every type of bike: gravel riders have plenty of scenic, flowing routes, while mountain bikers can tackle everything from berms and rocky sections to technical features and jumps. If you fancy stretching your legs instead, parts of the network are also excellent for hiking.

Bike hire: Ride In is located right next to the trails. Just call ahead, because their opening hours and Google Maps aren't always on speaking terms.

Spier cycling trails

Looking for something more laid-back than MTO? Spier is a brilliant option. The trail network welcomes both gravel and mountain bikes, weaving through sandy tracks, forest paths and quiet paved roads that cut straight through vineyards and farmland.

The network is big enough for a proper outing, but the real magic begins once you are off the bike. After a couple of hours in the saddle, you will find yourself right next to one of the Cape's most iconic wine estates. Swap your helmet for a glass, settle in for lunch, or simply reward yourself with an ice cream. The whole estate is beautifully maintained, with easy parking and a relaxed, safe atmosphere, making it just as enjoyable for families and casual riders as it is for keen cyclists.

One thing to know: there is no bike rental on site yet, so bring your own wheels.

60-kilometre ride to Hout Bay

If you are bringing (or hiring) a road bike, make this ride a priority, because although Cape Town has no shortage of brilliant cycling routes, this 60-kilometre loop to Hout Bay is one of the very best.

Start at Cycling Friends, a café-meets-bike-shop where you can hire a bike before setting off. From there, the route hugs the coast towards Hout Bay, with wide road shoulders and plenty of fellow cyclists for company, making it one of the city's most popular road rides.

The climb is part of the fun. Rather than one brutal ascent, the elevation builds gradually, eventually gaining almost 1,000 metres before rewarding you with sweeping ocean views and the iconic stretch towards Chapman's Peak. Stop for a coffee, something to eat and a well-earned breather before turning around and enjoying the ride all over again.

Cape Town is the kind of place where you will spot surf boards the minute you leave the airport, and pretty much the whole trip long. But if there is one spot to properly go for it, it is Muizenberg Beach.

Why there? Good waves for beginners and old hands alike, loads of surf shacks lining the beach, easy rentals for wetsuits and boards, and just an all-round proper surf-culture vibe.

Small tip: right next door we stumbled on a cafe that felt like the beating heart of South Africa, with the coffee machine going all day long — Hans & Lloyd.