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FashionLebanonArt

by Christelle EL-Daher

غرباء مألوفون: ليلة تالا هجر في الفن والموضة في بيروت

30 Apr 2025

On April 16, the photographer Tala Hajjar held an inaugural exhibition centered about her new-found artistic medium, ceramics. It was hosted alongside Rabih Kayrouz’s Spring/Summer (SS) 2025 ready-to-wear collection at Maison Rabih Kayrouz (MRK). And here is what you need to know!
I found myself following the sound of music that guided me through Gemmayzeh’s back alleys to MRK’s boutique, which is nestled in a traditional house. The external staircase led me to a lush courtyard buzzing with chatters, pleasantries and greetings. The names and faces of the Lebanese art and fashion scene were mingling, enjoying refreshing drinks, and trying the za'atar crackers made by Rabih’s father bakery.
After some socialising, my creative curiosity and intrigue were at their peak. I overheard many renowned design figures complimenting Tala and praising her talent. It was time to see what this exhibition had in store.
In her artist statement, Tala describes her creations as “a collection of characters, functional, anthropomorphic beings”. The tone was set from the get go. What started as a standard display of ceramic ornaments gradually morphed into something more absurd. As I moved from one room to another, innocent grey and white bowls, cute centerpieces mimicking harmless mushrooms and wild grass, gave way to bloodshot mythical beings. Not to be undone, these creatures somehow managed to turn 2D and find their way on the crisp white shirts hanging by their side.
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Dragged into a Kafkaesque hole by the end of the tour, the promise of a surrealist journey was fulfilled. Moreover, the setting was cleverly designed to officially unveil the Tala Hajjar X MRK’s collaboration.
This was the unexpected surprise of the event. Unbeknownst to the public, Tala had asked Studio Kunukku to get inspired by her imagined hybrids and turn them into woodblock prints to be stamped on MRK shirts and t-shirts. Thus, adding allure to casual wear. These sketches reminded me of cave paintings, a sprout of creativity on a blank canvas.
And to answer the question lingering on your minds: “What is Kunukku? Is it English? Arabic?”, I inquired. It is the Akkadian word “seal impression”. Founded in Ancient Mesopotamia, the Akkadian Empire was the first known empire in history. At its greatest extent, it ruled over parts of Iraq, Iran, Syria, and Turkey (2334 to 2154 BC). So, “Kunukku” is a very sophisticated history infused way of saying block printing!
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It is also important to note that even in a light hearted collaboration MRK stayed true to its core identity, fluidity. “The body has to breathe” in Rabih’s world, and it most certainly does when dressed in his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Characterised by its fluidity and weightlessness, this collection brings enchantment and delight to its admirers and wearers. A staunch minimalist, Rabih is a purist that lets the fabric speak for itself and be the center of attention. One of the best examples is the “metallic jacquard mermaid dress”. The technique that went into weaving the fabric was spotlighted and enhanced by Rabih’s architectural construction. Beauty lies in simplicity. What these pieces lack in embellishment, they make it up in their vitality. The lively and bold scenery will uplift your morale on the most hectic days. Sometimes, a dash of colours can be the difference between perceiving the silver lining of optimism or feeling the blues. But all the vibrant dresses, skirts and shirts that were showcased couldn’t trump the gold sweater whose twin is at the Louvre.
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في حال فاتك ذلك، فإن المتحف الباريسي يحتضن معرضاً بعنوان "لوفر كوتور: أشياء فنية، أشياء من الموضة". يعرض العبقرية الإبداعية لخمس وأربعين مصمماً مشهوراً في عالم الموضة من خلال مئة زي. يمثل ربيع كيروز بزي من مجموعته للهوت كوتور لشتاء وخريف 2019-2020. وهي تنورة من الأورغنزا الحرير مع حواف من الدانتيل الذهبي وكنزة محاكة بخيط ذهبي، والتي استغرق إنجازها ثلاثة أسابيع.
يبدو أن عام 2025 يحدد دخول MRK الكبير إلى عالم الفن والثقافة. في وقت سابق من هذا الشهر، تم الإعلان عن أن ربيع سيقوم بإنشاء أزياء "كارمن"، أوبرا ستعرض في مهرجان بعلبك الدولي هذا العام. يتلقى المساعدة من طلاب من Creative Space Beirut (CSB)، وهي مدرسة لتصميم الأزياء مجانية تدعم المواهب الضعيفة. وتوفر الأقمشة من قبل Wardé، رائدة في مجال النسيج اللبناني.
عندما يتعلق الأمر بمساعدة المواهب الشابة اللبنانية، فإن ربيع ليس في محاولته الأولى. في عام 2008، أطلق ربيع وتالا ستارش، وهي منظمة غير حكومية تهدف إلى تعزيز مصممي الأزياء اللبنانيين الناشئين. من بين الخريجين، يمكننا أن نجد أسماء مثل روني حلو، وسليم عزام، وكريكور جابتويان.
وكما قد تكون خمنت، فإن ثنائية ربيع وتالا تعود إلى زمن بعيد. كيف بدأت شراكتهما؟ باختصار، قامت تالا بإعطاء ربيع المهمة الدقيقة المتعلقة بصنع فستان زفافها. وهو قرار قد حدد بداية صداقة طويلة وتعاون مهني غني.
أثبتت تلك الأمسية يوم الأربعاء أن "الغرباء المألوفين" يمكن أن يصبحوا جزءاً من العائلة "التي تجلس على طاولتك وتلهم خيالك".